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Old May 15, 2005, 05:43 PM
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
1,165 Posts
GWS Spitfire Build thread (with glassing tutorial)

Hi All.

I originally wanted to do a glassing tutorial while repairing my corsair, and although the repairs turned out wonderfully, I felt it wasn't a good subject for a full fledged build and glassing thread.

So, as I wanted to build a spitfire anyway, and the LHS had the slope glider version on sale, I picked it up cheap (less than $50 CAD) and will use that as the basis for my build tutorial. This will be a powered version but I'll be using stock equipment (EDP350C with B gearing found in the powered version) that I have laying around. The power system comes from my Corsair which is being convered to Brushless.

As this is mostly a build thread and glassing tutorial, I'll be glossing over some of the minor details of building GWS specific models. If you've built more than one GWS model you'll know that the majority of their construction is the same accross their line.

- Poly Instafil lightweight spackling compound. This is available from HomeDepot, Rona, or pretty much any home supply store.
- 21 gram (.75 oz) weight fiberglass cloth purchased from hobby shop.
- Minwax, Ultra fast drying Polycrylic. I use cear semi-gloss but any colour will work.
- Various grits of sand paper from 150 to 400.

Model preparation.
Obviously GWS models are made of injection molded foam. The injection technique tends to leave marks and other imperfections on the parts. These need to be filled and sanded. The ejection pin marks are the round 'embosed' marks on the bottoms of the wings and tail surfaces. The fuselage also tends to have a large number of smaller pin marks.

Use the lightweight spackle to fill the larger pin marks. A plastic spatula or thin plastic sheet is used to level the spackle to the rest of the surface just as you would use it on the wall in your house. Let this dry overnight and then sand the whole surface down with 150 to 200 grit sandpaper. Don't worry if the GWS paint comes off (in fact it's better if it does come off).
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Last edited by David Winter; May 15, 2005 at 06:17 PM.
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