Now, to the wing tips. In most of my pictures you have likely noticed the purple fiberglass tips. These can be affixed with 5 minute epoxy of thick CA and kicker. There are two holes that run the length of the wing, one being circular and the other being oval. The holes are not aligned perfectly inside the wings but you can run a lighting kit through each one without any issues.
I have used the Lumifly FAA configurable lighting kit on another plane for at least a year or two. It will cause slight interference on 72MHz PPM receiver systems in time with the while LED's pulse but this can be remedied by wrapping the main lighting power lead wires around a small soft iron toroidal choke. I keep a bag of them in my parts bin, along with clip-on chokes for larger battery leads. 2.4GHz and 72MHz PCM receivers typically show no interference symptoms in these situations, but when you least expect it...
The ailerons are designed to use bent metal rods and require that you manually bend the end that inserts into the control surface horn. The steel can be a bit tough and springy, but a bench vise, vise grips, pliers and two hammers will make it work. There is actually a tool designed to make this quick and painless, but few people ever buy one. I marked the approximate position in which I wanted to make the bend to insert into the control surface's horn, and bent the rod here. I completed the final end bend by holding the steel rod in the bench vise and used a hammer to bend the tip. I then used the curled reverse end of a hammer to strike the rod where needed to square up the bends.
Above, you can see that it mounts rather well. Great Planes made a good decision here because these control rod ends never fail, as set screws certainly can loosen and fail. As an amendment, I reverted the elevator control rod to the same bent type as these, and did not use the included set-screw type brass control rod lock.
The wheels are quite small and scale, and are good for compacted sand or pavement takeoffs. I bought a bag of DuBro 3/32" Duracollars to lock the wheels onto the landing gear, after reading about other people's wheels coming off when they land. For the nose wheel's heavier landing gear shaft, I had to drill a single collar out a bit larger diameter. I left enough space between the collar and opposite-end wheel stopper to allow the wheel to turn freely. I removed about 6mm of material to set the wheel at the correct position for ample ground clearance, as per the instructions manual. If you are concerned that you may not have the wheel pants level with each other do no glue them yet, we will get to them.
Next, insert the rear landing gear steel shafts into the two predrilled holes in the recessed area under the fuselage. Use a marker to mark the positions of the four additonal holes that are needed for the rubberized-plastic landing gear holders 6mm from the bend (the bend that leads down to the wheels) in each steel rod. As you drill the holes, they should extend into the hardwood blocks inside the fuselage that were factory installed. Test fit the screws and run some thin CA glue into the holes to reinforce the threads.
Mount the landing gear and tip the plane back so that it sits with the tail touching the floor. Your wheels are already installed and spaced, but now you must CA the wheel pants and their small holders. It just happens that when the plane sits with the nose upward and the tail touching the floor, that the rear two wheel pants can aligned perfectly with their trailing edges touching the floor, too. The nose pant will have to be installed and leveled by eye.
The rear landing gear will squat a bit under the model's own weight, with the nose a couple degrees upward.
The power test with the APC 8x6" propeller and 1800mAh 65C 3S lithium polymer pack provided 334 Watts
, peak on a fresh pack, 285 Watts
on a storage charged 1300mAh 45C 3S pack. The RPM at the propeller was frightening.