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Old Feb 05, 2013, 05:06 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkater View Post
After reading the other thread, i plan to use a 3S setup with the stock 2500KV, 5030 and 3S180.

Important questions:
Is it still true, that no one reported a toasted brick?

And is it true, that the problems with OTP can be solved with heatsinks and thermal adhesive?
Or are there cases of OTP reported even though heatsinks were used?
There was one reported failure, and even that one was on a questionable board... Statistically speaking it is very safe. However it is still at your own risk.

I'd say that 90% of the cutouts on 3S, if they were occurring, are fixed by adding a heatsink to the FETs and the VR on the brick. I added a very tiny scoop to the bottom of the plane where the aileron wires go through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkater View Post
If not, would an esc like the XP-12A be an alternative?
And where on the board is the solder point to get a clear signal?

Did the problems with OTC and OCP happen to everyone after some time?
Or are there at least a few flying 3S for a longer time without problems, so it's worth a try?
xp-12 ESC would be a great choice if needed, however most people haven't needed it.
Here is a video of how to add the XP-12A: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=801

Some people have 0 problems ever when running 3S. some bricks are just more sensitive than others.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Speaking of deadsticks, the Beast glides slightly better than the average brick. Deadsticking the Beast is similar to deadsticking a heli. Or the Space Shuttle. You get one shot. You can't stretch the glide, because there is no glide to stretch. If you have to deadstick, point the nose at the deck & keep it there until it's time to flare.

Joel
Let me fix this:
The Beast glides slightly worse than the average brick. Deadsticking the Beast is much harder than deadsticking a heli.

-Brian
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