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Old Feb 05, 2013, 03:28 PM
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Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkater View Post
Thanks for your answer!

So does this mean WITH further work like heatsinks and ventholes it's possible?

If not, would an esc like the XP-12A be an alternative?
And where on the board is the solder point to get a clear signal?

Did the problems with OTC and OCP happen to everyone after some time?
Or are there at least a few flying 3S for a longer time without problems, so it's worth a try?

(Sorry for my stupid questions, but i'm just at page 918 of 1083 at the moment, but i try hard to catch up!)
Quite a few of us have been running 3s on the factory Beast 3D electronics for hundreds of flights with no problems at all - even without heatsinks or extra cooling holes. Some bricks are more tolerant than others. Before flying, be sure the prop is balanced really well. Do a brief 5-10 sec static test @ WOT while wiggling the sticks to check things out. If it handles that, you should be OK, but take it easy on the throttle during takeoff & be sure to get enough altitude for a deadstick before going WOT - just in case. If the motor cuts out, immediately cut the throttle, drop the nose, and wait for a few seconds before smoothly getting back into the throttle. That's usually enough to restore power to the motor. Speaking of deadsticks, the Beast glides slightly better than the average brick. Deadsticking the Beast is similar to deadsticking a heli. Or the Space Shuttle. You get one shot. You can't stretch the glide, because there is no glide to stretch. If you have to deadstick, point the nose at the deck & keep it there until it's time to flare.

Joel
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