Originally Posted by BobTopofTheWorld
Me thinks a ESC/BL thats built like the kit thats available through aliexpress would be the solution.(of course scaled down) It uses the on board esc to generate the control signal, needing no signal converter. I like the KISS method. Is my long-term hope to get one of them for my 'wild '45 project'
Winds kicked up as the sun started heating things... 15 mph wind gusts is a HOOT to fly in... makes things right exciting
flyin til im dyin
correct me if i am wrong, a motor operating on 11v would draw less current as the same motor doing the same work @ 7.2v... AND if the ESC FET can take the voltage, shouldnt the ESC actually run cooler... as it only has to handle 66% of the current that is drawn @ 7.2 (all leading up to this) the tail esc only switches ground, why cant it be fed from the 11 volt rail? Another reason I was going with the kit is that it is 7.2v, negating the need for more batteries, a spendy charger and so on and so forth
You're correct on the 11.1 volt, less amps with more volts. Also, the motor runs faster. Look on my blog on the F45 page. 2 charts showing the results. The only thing I did not include is the amp draw as it would have made the 20 minute program into days of work.
The brushless conversion for the tail is more complicated. There is no signal other than directly on the board. Moki managed to locate the signal and soldered directly to to outputs on the board. Otherwise, you need a signal converter and the extreme version does not have the right thresh hold to work properly with our boards voltage output. There was a similar problem with 2 Walkera helis, the MasterCP and the V400D02. They are both flybarless, both use the same motor, and similar RXs, but the outputs to the tail are different requiring different signal converters. I really feel when going to all the trouble to convert the main and tail motor to brushless, a new RX, a 10.00 gyro, and a good TX complete the modification. You can get many programable TX/RX combinations for less than 100.00.
The skids I got are from oomodel.com. Any Align compatible skid will do. Just need to drill new 3/16 inch holes to mount the skids over the original pins for mount the stock skids and you need 2 washers to go over the screws on the from skid. The rear has the stabilizer arms going under the skid so washers not required there.