Originally Posted by Daedalus66
That approach should work fine and it's under the nacelle, so won't show.
But I can assure you that the elevator installation works exactly as shown in the Guide, though I have to admit that the plywood is a bit fragile. Suggestion to anyone who hasn't done it yet: Reinforce the thin frame of the plywood with some strands of CF or a bit of lightweight glass cloth. Once it's hot glued to the servo everything is solid. (I broke one of mine too and tried CA. It wasn't strong enough.)
The pushrod goes in following the existing slot. I opened up the hole slightly with a rat tail file. Then you insert the servo on its mount and line up the pushrod. It takes a bit of patience to get everything aligned and to Dremel out the necessary space for the arm to rotate, so there's a lot of taking out and putting back. It took me under an hour in total to get everything adjusted to my satisfaction, glued in place and working smoothly.
Adjusting the pushrod is easy as long as you have a suitable 1.5mm Allen wrench.
Hint: I didn't do enough carving out of foam to make room for the motor wire connectors. It all worked OK in the end but would have been easier if I had made more room for them ahead of the servo compartment (see first picture). In the second picture you can just see something of the extra space created with a Dremel to allow the arm to move freely. Note that the servo mount is up against the plywood spine of the Polaris at the rear. I added hot melt glue to the joint.
So take your choice. The "official" way works fine and makes for a very neat job, but the approach Kingsflyer took should be easier.
You can simply move the control horn to the top side of elevator,then remove the foam portusion on the bottom and hot glue the servo upright to bottom of nacelle. Then remove some foam from hatch cover for connector to move freely, line up pushrod and poke it through the foam. Remove rod and add sheath and reinsert. Now everything is upright , neat, and accessible. I'm of the opion that it should be designed this way. Also found my rudder channel blocked and pushed and twisted a long time with no luck. Finally had to settle for the best fit I could get but no way could I get the sheath past the frame joint. Suggestion would be have manufacturer put the pushrod sheaths in the mold. Glue is now setting on wing panels and I hope to fly her tomorrow. donnie