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Old Jan 16, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Ashford. Kent. England
Joined Feb 2005
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I have made a lighter framework following roughly my drawing.. I used 2.5mm for the main fuzz rod 1.5 for the LE curve 2mm for the spars and 1.2 mm for the diagonal bracing

the shape is altered slightly... because of how I built it..
note... all rods are cut 1" over length then later trimmed..
Bindings are made by crossing rods, lashing with cord... (upholstery thread is super strong).. then fixing solid with fast CA

1...first I cut the main fuzz rod... and fitted the 16" rear spar to it at right angles and central..
2... I made a LE bow from a 1Mx1.5mm rod with the tie cord set at 16" long.. the tie cord was fixed at 1" in from each end of the 1M length..this is to fit to the rear spar
3....put some hinge tubes onto the rear spar..the yellow tubes in the pic, before you bind on the bow
4... the bow is now fitted to the spar at the location of the tie chord..the bow sides are bound and fitted so they are at right angles to the spar..they are held there at right angles while the CA sets the cord solid. this gives a better shape and more accuracy to the build

When that was done I noticed the curve made at the front end was fatter than my drawing.... a quick measure gave the solution.. a longer front spar at 11" rather than the 10" in the diagram... this fitted nicely...

5 ....the front 11" spar is cut and fitted
6... because I am going to use the shrinking material as a cover I now fitted diagonal bracing, I had 1.2mm CF rod so thats what I used.

things to note...
I use a cutting mat, which has squares on it to line up the rods.. its important that the kite frame is square and equal on both sides..
Note how you cross the rods, one side must mirror the other.... I try to have the rods which will take the covering material always on top of the pile .. as long as you mirror you will have a usable wing...
If you don't mirror it can be like having a twist built in since the covering material will be stuck to the rods.. one up and then one down on the other side puts the material at different heights..
When you make a bow for a bend always leave the cord in place..this takes all the tension of the bend.. if you cut this cord off the frame will get distorted from this tension.. If the cord gets in the way, and it sometims does, replace the cord in a better location and nice and tight before removing the old cord
On the build below I had to do just that, because the first bow cord was running too close to the rear spar and would have interfered with the hinging

That brings me to the pic shown... its nice and stiff , more than I expected , and the weight as shown is 11.7 gms

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Last edited by davereap; Jan 17, 2013 at 05:14 AM.
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