IMO, Normal mode is "exactly" like 4 Channel FP.
I've flown many of the micro FP's and although I'm not very observant, I believe all hover around 60-70%Throttle. Now that I've started training inverted, I believe the only reason the RC Heli manufacturers program their FP's to hover near 60-70% Throttle is to train pilots to get the "feel" for CP. I "feel" no difference between FP, CP Normal Mode, and CP Stunt Mode when the Throttle is between 50-100 (except the Mini's flat CP Blades can "cut" its way through wind, and change speed much noticeably faster at will
Zero pitch at 50% throttle is Stunt Mode (not Normal Mode). As was mentioned earlier, it is not recommended to take off in Stunt Mode, and if you're just starting and not comfortable with FP, then it is probably recommended to only fly in Normal Mode until you feel very comfortable with Normal Mode. IMO, the only pilot noticeable differences between Normal and Stunt in the upright flight position is Normal allows a slightly lower head speed (i.e. sounds slightly less intimidating, and causes slightly less crash damage), and Normal allows the BAD habit of slamming the Throttle stick all the way down during a "spaz" attack without causing damage. As was mentioned in a prior post, if you ever want to learn to fly inverted (real CP), the sooner you learn to acquire the reflex habit of using TH (Throttle Hold), the sooner you'll reduce crash damage. IMO with the Mini, if you fly outdoor over grass, and you have the ability to use TH atleast 2 seconds before an impact, your chance of not breaking something is almost 100%.
AFAIK, nothing can he done about the heli wanting to tip left during take off. When I first started, that was my #1 crash scenario. AFAIK there are only two ways to over come the tipping:
1) the easiest method (and IMO best newbie advice) was mentioned before: find the most open (wind free) space you can afford, and use Throttle stick to just "punch" the heli up to 3 or more feet high and then take control from there - I know it's scary forcing yourself to keep your "eyes closed", then all at once having to taking over the controls in mid air - ESPECIALLY if there is something wrong with the heli that won't let it hover as well as it is capable of. Even if nothing is wrong with the heli, for people that "spaz" easily, it takes "balls of steel". I can't tell you how to get them, they just have to "grow on you". My advice for someone first starting out, that doesn't want to learn at the school of hard knocks, is to first team up with an experienced RC heli flyer, and let them first launch the heli in the air into a hover, then have them give you the control and have you gently move it tail-in a few inches in all four directions to let you get a feel for how it responds to stick commands. I believe my biggest problem when I was new, was wanting/trying to "peel the paint" off every wall in every possible direction. The day I slowed down to a crawl was the day I made the fastest progress. Just to make certain you know how important I think method of training is, I'm going to re-post the link to my KungFu post just to get this point across: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...x#post23530876
2) with enough practice (I recommend only practicing in the air at first), you'll get so comfortable at barely nudging the sticks within the correct split second, that you'll be able to expertly give it just the right amount of stick at the exact time to do a scale take off. IMO, trying to do scale take-off before you can fly is like playing Russian Roulette with a gun almost fully loaded (i.e. there isn't enough time to hit TH before a possible blade impact when you're on the ground, so IMO it is better to crash from a few feet up (where there's enough time to hit TH), then it is to crash at full rpm on the ground).
BTW, a properly functioning FBL heli is easier to "take out of the box" and fly than a FB heli. The FB heli most often had to be manually "trimmed" in the air before it could hover in one spot. IMO that was the most difficult thing to do!!! Comparatively speaking, almost anything else afterwards was a "walk in the park", until I got inverted.
I normally don't give Throttle, Pitch, D/R, or Expo advice because I seem to be have the minority opinion. So far, I've always preferred 100% everything - even when I was a brand new-bie. I even have the RX Pot set to the lowest Gyro setting, and would have no problem recommending that setting to anyone past the hovering stage of training.
I don't understand what you were referring to when you posted "-1, 0, 4". I forgot if you were the one that has been posting in this thread, but has a V911? If so, then I'd probably have difficulty trying to give advice using V911? TX "language".
I prefer openly giving advice in the thread. This way if I give bad advice, someone else is able to make a correction and offer better advice and/or opinion. However, if you're brand new, and due to my lack of efficient communication skills, it might be faster for the both of us to talk voice. It might not be apparent from reading my posts, but I really don't like typing much! If you're in the US, I can call you for free.
IMO, learning to properly inspect, troubleshoot, and set up a heli, is probably one of the most important things to learn. I believe the smoother and crisper a heli flies, the easier it is to fly. The more wobbly a heli is, the more unpredictable it will be. A newbie needs all the help he can get; however, there is a law of diminishing returns (i.e. if you're going to crash one second later, what is the point of fine tuning everything?)