Thread: Discussion Pioneer Glider
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:34 PM
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Diving rubber

The dive test only tests stab incidence.

Airspeed empowers tailfeathers, so when you dive a plane, not only are you doing a test that is out side the normal operating speed of the model you are applying more force to the pitch controlling surfaces of a model.

In the good old days before carbon fuselages, carbon pushrods, carbon control surfaces and digital servo with high holding power....models would blow up in the air from excess airspeed.

This is a rubber model, not carbon. So like in the good old days, when you put the model in a dive, it will have to have an extreme amount of up trim in order for the surfaces to stop bending downward as the speed increases..(aero-elasticity).

IN the good old days you balanced the models 2" forward of where we balance them today, that put a bunch of up elevator into the trim, so that if the model got into a dive, picked up extreme speed, then the surfaces would only bend down to a point that still would force the nose up, keeping the model from self destructing in the air....Tucking happened when a model was balanced properly, then when it entered a high speed dive, the surfaces, tail boom, pushrods, servos would be forced beyond neutral into negative, causing the dive to increase even more.

The dive test became a norm for testing models "CG", you know the measurement that happens in a garage or on a bench with the model teetering on some nails....not flying.

Have you noticed this model is made of rubber? Balancing it so that it pulls out is a good idea if you intend to fly it around with the motor on and some down compensating attached to throttle to keep it from ballooning.

This is a rubber toy, that will never fly the same way twice, pending temperature and wind speed.

Having said that, if it is trimmed and balanced for motor off flight, you would never consider 'dive testing' it, since that kind of speed isn't part of thermal soaring. Thermal soaring is best done at the best speed that the model prefers. That is the hands off flat and level flight speed it prefers.

You can find the speed that any model prefers by simply getting it flying flat and level, hands off. Then start pushing down elevator trim, one click at a time. When eventually notice that the model has begun to nose down, add two clicks of up trim. Then learn to fly the model set up that way for optimum performance.

I have ordered the electric component supplied with the ARF version, but I'm not holding my breath as to when they might arrive. Nitro Hobby is very pleasant on the phone (after waiting more than 30mins to actually talk to someone there.) They agree with everything you say, agree to get the parts to you, then the parts may come or not. This is a new kit to them so very likey the motor, prop spinner are not in stock.
We'll see.

Still looking forward to getting in the air. If you guys are looking for a great flying wing, get the RC Eagle (original Chinese version) it looks and thermals like a hawk.
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