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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:42 PM
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High Altitude Flyer
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Fairplay, South Park, CO
Joined Sep 2005
1,640 Posts
Improving Cooling Air Flow to Stock Motor & ESC

Friends,

I've just received a Phoenix 2000 Version III kit from HK, and have started work on it. My intention is to fly it first with the stock motor & ESC; upgrades are always an option later. (I'll be installing other servos for the ailerons, elevator, & rudder before flying.)

From reading many comments about the stock motor overheating and the stock ESC failing, I decided to start there. The kit as supplied does NOT have the cooling airflow vents in the motor mount phenolic plastic plate cut out on the motor side of the plastic firewall, and the openings were also not cut in the nylon plastic firewall area of the fuselage. I started by removing the battery tray and motor to remedy this. The photos below show the result.

I next enlarged the intake air vent openings on the sides of the fuselage to allow more airflow over the ESC & flight battery. (I'll cut larger exit vents just aft of the wing mount position on either side of the fuselage later.)

Next I worked on the ESC & it's mounting to improve the effectiveness of the cooling air flow on it. I first cut away selected sections of the thick rubber heat shrink covering over two areas- the main MOSFET heat sink aluminum plate on the ESC's top surface, and over the two 3/8" square BEC voltage regulators on the opposite side. I then cut some thin sheet aluminum to size for an added heat sink for the two voltage regulators, and glued it in place solidly in contact with the voltage regulator's cases.

Keeping the ESC positioned effectively in the cooling airflow was the next aspect to deal with. I used two balsa rails to mount the ESC to the lower surface of the battery mount tray with airflow space between. I simply glued it together with thin CyA glue & baking soda; the results are shown in the photos below.

The rudder was the next issue that I focused upon; I decided to try stiffening it and reinforcing the lower end of the existing 'live' EPO hinge before adding anything else. I used an adjustable temperature soldering iron with an appropriately sized tip to melt in two channels for the ~1.5mm CF side stiffeners, and then glued the CF rods in those slots flush with the surface. A third CF rod section was inserted into the foam just across the top of the control horn mount area. I'll glue the control horn to the EPO foam once it's mounted to keep the foam from fatigueing where the control horn compresses the foam- (I've seen this happen on another foamie glider before.)

More later.


VIKING
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Last edited by viking60; Nov 17, 2012 at 07:43 AM.
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