Originally Posted by peter24
Just ordered one of these. Should be here in a week or so. I know zilch about flybarless setup. Guess i better get reading.....
Don't go reading whole threads. waste of time. Come to think of it, the first post is missing the basic beginners steps to get started
On a new build for me I go:
-New model in Tx -> 90 degrees swashplate. No expo/dual rates or funky mixes! Set Motor throttle like you are used to (does not connect to the Gyro anyway). For now use a linear pitch curve from minimum to maximum.
-Connect Gyro with all wires and PC, Start the setup program.
-Press connect on the correct com port. You should see the USB dongle blink when it transmits data.
-go to setup button and follow instructions. On monitor tab use Tx trim and channel reverse to get every slider bar at 0 (center) and set limits so they show 100 all around in the right direction when moving sticks to extremes. This is the last Tx programming you will need to do while setting up the Gyro.
-Follow setup steps until servo reverse. keep hitting reverse buttons until the swash tilts the same way as your cyclic stick movement. If you can't get it right, swap out the left and right cyclic servo connections in the Gyro. Don't worry about up/down collective movement right now.
-Servo trim menu: Get all servo arms level. make sure you are at 0-pitch stick. Dont use the right side of the settings screen. its buggy. Do it servo by servo with the three sliders. Once level, pick your favorite swash leveler method/tool. make it level buy turning the linkage rods. (Do this only at only 0-collective pitch. Sorry, you cant compensate for uneven servo travel at full positive and negative collective.
-Swash travel menu. Set it to something reasonable looking on your swash-plate. Move cyclic stick all round and it should not bind at 0-collective.
-Set collective pitch. If swash travel is going the wrong way, get it in the negative side of the slider. Around 11 degrees pitch is a good start, more is possible if the motor power can keep up.
(*if your servo arms are just moving a little, mount the ball on the horn a little closer to center to get more torque and precision out of the servos. I use around 10 or 11mm from center on my HK450)
-> now go back to "Swash travel menu" and check for binding when moving cyclic stick at maximum collective ends.
Some heli's i have set up to not even bind in stick corners, others do bind a little in the corners. Have not had problems with both.
Tip for the tail: Get the tailrotorblades folded out and in vertical orientation. push the top blade all the way forward. Now this is your pointer (like an arrow showing if thrust goes left or right from the tailrotor). Move rudder stick on Tx to see if thrust would go the correct way. Otherwise reverse it.
0-pitch on main blades and put gyro in rate mode, center tail servo arm so it is at 90* and turn the tail-pushrod so it will give ~5 degrees of pitch (thrust to the right side)
Measure the distance between tailblade tips when folded in one direction and divide by 2.
for 5 degrees of pitch on a 60mm long blade that would be: Sin 5 * 60mm = 5.2mm
So the tips must be spaced 10.4mm apart
(I use this trick on the main blades also. I don't use a pitch-gauge at all anymore.
-Gyro dir. Basically if you hold the heli and tilt it several directions, the swashplate must have to show the tendency to keep level.
-Piro opt. When you click "test" the swash will tilt a certain direction. Rotate the heli 1/4 or 1/2 and see if the swash tilts keeps pointing in the same direction in your room (sort of at least)
Back to main screen go to advanced menu.
-Push a big button between beginner and hardcore. depending of what you cyclic sensitivity you like on your heli.
(I started with 3D and moved my sliders after test-flights to get the roll speed i like.)
-Go to Advanced menu
Lower RC deadband both left and right to around 30. It depends on the quality of your remote. If you see the swash or tail servos twitch by just touching the sticks you might need to increase this setting.
Set "tail compensate: cyclic to tail" to around 4. Move cyclic stick and observe if tail thrust does increase when you to to the edges. If wrong set it to -4
Put "tail compensate: collective to tail" to 8. Observe that it gives more tail thrust when you move off 0-pitch. Otherwise use -8.
Back to main screen, set roll and pitch gain slider to 30
Set tail rotor gain at 50. Set your Tx gain setting a bit lower than maximum so you can increase it while flying or on the field.
Time to fine tune your heli. You can start to program your normal mode and idel-up pitch-curves + throttle-curves.
Dualrrates and expo work really well to tome down the cyclic for landing and takeoffs.
I use 80%dualrate and 15% expo for smooth 3D, and 100%dualrate and 20% expo to increase cyclic response while still accurate near center.
Off to the flied!
Training gear on the skids is not a bad idea, nor is it for pussies!
Pre-flight check (ALWAYS! for me):
-tilt heli forward/sideways, see if swash keeps level.
-While standing behind heli, move cyclic and see if swash follows
-Point upper tail rotor blade forward to make it a thrust pointer. Rotate the heli a little to see if it tries to compensate correctly. move rudder stick to see effect.
-Move cyclic a little to see if blades follow correctly
-Step back, switch to rate mode and back to HH (this resets the tail and swash tilt) and go fly
The gains are on the safe side. If all went well and the heli wont keep shaking forward or sideways after a control input, increase gain 5 points every test-flight until it becomes bouncy. then turn back a few points.