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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:32 PM
jackerbes is offline
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Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
18,097 Posts
rodair,

Got that HZ PKZ1005 10 x 8 prop and tested it today on the 800 Kv LRK wind motor.

3S

15 seconds @ 3,366 RPM, 11.61V, 3.1A, 36W temp 66F to 67F
17 seconds @ 4,411 RPM, 11.16V, 6.60A, 74W temp 67F to 70F
full throttle
26 seconds @ 5,123 RPM, 10.61V, 10.92A, 117W temp 69F to 74F

4S (on 5S A123 pack)

12 seconds 2,821 RPM, 16.35V, 1.58A, 26W temp 77F to 80F
26 seconds @ 3,937 RPM, 16.11V, 3.57A, 58W temp tem 75F to 76F
14 seconds @ 5,539 RPM, 15.44V, 10.55A, 163W temp 73F to 77F
full throttle
10 seconds @ 5,834 RPM, 15.22V, 13.12A, 200W temp 77F

So this prop looks like another candidate for use on this motor with 3S and 4S packs.

Looks like a nice prop, a little heavier and stiffer plastic than GWS props. The blade is wider than a GWS DD prop and probably has a little less blade area than s similar sized GWS SF prop. The hub is heavier and stronger than a GWS SF prop would have so I'd rate it as stronger than those.

In the testing there was no audible or visible fluttering and it ran very smooth, It needed no balancing right out of the package. It is set up to be tractor mounted, the back of the prop hub has a 7mm hex nut socket and that provided a no play fit on a tapered cone prop saver with Thera-Band prop saver bands. The front face of the prop is flat and there is a 4mm/0.156" through hole. To mount it as a pusher with the flat face facing the motor might require some drilling out or other creativity.

I hit a little over 6,000 RPM with that a couple of times and would consider that to probably be a practical to use but maximum RPM for this prop for now. Over time you might find it will go a higher but I've never been one to want to test props to their breaking point just to see what they will take..

I fumbled around a little on getting this wind terminated. I wanted to transition to stranded wire close to the motor and did it by forming a small "U" bend on the 21 AWG solid wire close to the motor and then laying a piece of fine stranded 18 AWG on the "U" and soldering it. I put double shrink tube over the solder joints.

To immobilize the motor leads against vibration I looped a small (4") cable tie down around one of the unwound stator arms. Then I looped a second tie through the first and captured the three motor leads at the point where they made the transition from solid to stranded. That doubled ties raised the motor leads up and away from the edge of the magnet housing a little and should keep them from every getting into contact with the rotating housing.

Jack
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Last edited by jackerbes; Oct 12, 2012 at 06:32 AM.
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