Thread: Discussion 50% Christen Eagle
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:45 PM
packardpursuit is offline
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Spent yesterday repairing tools (table saw) and finalizing router table. This allowed me to experiment and then shape fin and rudder oulines. Also made a shaped sanding block radius to close approx of 11.5 R. I found a 7/8" diam broom handle, as a form. Needed to subract about 1mm from 1/2D of that handle to get very close to 11.5R. So I measured various thicknesses of sand paper and found an 80 grit garnet that was close to 1mm. I made a simple L by nailing a 3/4" sq stick to a 4"x 8"x 1/2" piece of ply. I used auto body "bondo" to form the radiused portion of the block (inside corner of L) and to stick the sand paper to the block at the same time. With paper stiking out both sides, the handle was clamped into the corner formed by the 3/4sq. and the ply. The sandpaper surface actually came out the same as the handle (DUH!) so will have to add another layer to get it just right. however I have used to rough out the initial shape of the LE/TE's and will shape. the router while good for getting things close does not allow the the bearing to ride the same for both sides. while the first pass is quite good, the second pass cuts too deep. Point of bearing contact changes with first pass). As a consequence the second pass required the router tool to be lowered so that the bearing contsacts the center line .So one is close, the other is not so close, but a couple of passes with the shaped sanding block trues and equalizes. Final shaping with second layer will come when all tail and wing tip outlines are rough cut. Today I'm hoping to jig up and cut the hinge slots for fin and rudder. All of this tooling will be used , as I said on other outlines and hinges.

Discovered that some of the kit provided pine was less than desirable (used the better stuff with matched grain and lighter weight on the stab and elevators). There was considerable tear out because of the wonky grain, when I attempted to rout the fin TE. It is still usable but it will require considerable spot filling, prior to final sanding. I will use epoxy and micro spheres on the worst and largest gap, for all other little sanding mishaps, I think lite wt. spackle will be fine.

I've decided that the covering material will be light weight Dacron, applied/filled with nitrate dope. Final finish will either be enamel or butyrate dope.
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