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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:12 PM
rjtw is offline
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United States, CA, Los Altos
Joined Feb 2012
228 Posts
Time to bring this thread back from the deep freeze! It was a long and busy summer, almost none of which spent on airplanes

I ordered my Neu 1115/1Y in June and received it in September. This is a 2800kV motor and I'll be using a 6x5 or 6x6. After some back-and-forth with the friendly folks at Castle on whether to add a rear support or not, I went with a front-only mount setup. I happened to have some sample carbon fiber 'sheet' material that ACP Composites had given to me earlier in the year when I visited them in Livermore. It's preformed, about .050" thick and incredibly tough. I cut out five round disks -- just big enough to fit inside the nose of the Tony, which is made for a 1.75" spinner -- and laminated them together with my handy ACP resin and squeezed together between thick aluminum sheets in a vice for 24 hours. This left me with a nice 1/4" thick, virtually indestructable yet very lightweight nose motor mount.

I also purchased a Tru-Turn Turbo Cool 1.75" spinner and decided that I will try a setup that relies only on air through the spinner for cooling. (If anybody has tried this and it isn't enough, let me know!) By the way, when you order this spinner, it comes be default with cutouts for a very large propeller, so be sure to order it with custom cutouts for whatever prop you'll be using. I'm going to start with a Cam Speed so sent them a damaged 6x6 I had lying around.

After drilling through the carbon plate and countersinking for the four motor mount screws, I used a 3/8" Dremel grinding wheel to bore four big holes surrounding the four motor mount screws. I'll post pics later, but my initial impression is that this setup has at least decent cross-sectional airflow area and I'm cautiously optimistic that it should provide adequate cooling. Still have to decide where and how to place exit vents though.

I should back up a moment and also say that I really wasn't sure whether I'd have to cut into the side of the fuselage or not (for instance, cutting into the area originally intended for the glow engine). As it is, the fuselage is nice and solid, with only some tiny molded-in lines to indicate where to cut for the glow engine to drop in. (The original design calls for the glow engine to then be covered by a removable right cheek cowl). My plan has always been to not make that cutout if at all possible to preserve strength -- especially with a front-mount -- and that would allow me to permanently attach the special right hand cheek cowl I made. The downside is that motor access would then only be through the nose ring and through the wing saddle area. But the Toni's nose is so long and narrow, I can barely even get my hand in through the wing saddle, and there's no way to reach inside through to the nose at all. So I wasn't sure if this plan would work or not. Now that it's done, though, I think I'll be fine with access only through the saddle.

I mounted the carbon disk by cutting an approximate 1" hole in the front of the nose area (behind the spinner), then applying just a small amount of 45-minute epoxy around the area where the disk contacts the front inside of the fuselage. I mounted the motor to the disk, fed it through the wing opening to the nose, attached the prop and spinner, and placed some 1/64" ply spacers between the spinner and the nose ring., then set the position carefully and finally taped everything firmly in place until the epoxy set. (If I need a little more space between the spinner and fuselage, the spinner can be set on the motor shaft at any location). Later, I came in behind the carbon disk with a strip of 3 ounce fiberglass, about 3/4" wide. I fed in more ACP resin (by sucking some into a straw, then sticking the straw through one of the cooling holes in the front mount and letting the resin flow out) and positioned the glass to overlap the back of the mount with some angled tweezers. I then hung the fuselage nose-down to dry, so the resin flowed to form a really nice ring (filling the gaps left by my initial epoxy 'tack' of the mount) all the way round.

Pics to follow!
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