I wind up with two layers on the LE of my flying surfaces. I use 3/4 oz cloth from Thayer. The "seam" left by having two layers is not an issue as it blends nicely. Just a little sanding is necessary. The trailing edge is just left to hang off and is removed after it cures by a light sanding with about 200 grit. I don't normally wrap the TE. There is enough epoxy to make the TE tough enough, at least in my opinion
Do the bottom first, just like you would with your favorite plastic wrap. I usually will do the hard parts like aileron ends, the joint at the tail parts and the "little" stuff first. Let it harden and then lay cloth up to the junction at as an example the vertical fin fuse joint. You get two layers there giving a tad extra strength.
There is much discussion about thinning epoxy. I do thin a tad with either acetone or denatured alcohol. It is said acetone is really the better thinning agent. I only thin the first coat as I only want to stick the cloth to the surface. I use a playing card or piece of balsa as a squeegee. If you see any shiny spots you have the epoxy to thick and you need to squeegee that out to a dry spot. A very light sanding with 400 dry to just knock the tops off the high spots. The second coat is the "filler" coat. this fills 95% of the weave. Then on to primer and paint.
The CAP in my avatar came out at 7 1/2 pounds. It is all glass and epoxy, and could have been lighter if I had not use yellow and red as colors as they do not cover well and I needed to use a lot of paint. It is clear coated with automotive urethane.