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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:57 PM
pompebled is offline
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Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
5,549 Posts
Hi Jordan,

Told you the boat looks stunning, didn't I?

I know you don't want to upgrade right away, but once you get the hang of it and can run the boat in large ovals full throttle, there's a little trick that will make the boat faster without investing more than some elbow grease.

In the picture showing the bottom, I can see, that like on our ARPRO's, the bottom is far from flat.

If you hold a steel ruler over the seperate sections of the bottom you'll find a number of spots with either a rocker (bump), or a cavity, where light shines under the ruler.

If you take the time to carefully sand away the bumps, see how bad the dimples are after the sanding (leave them alone for now).
Use a flat surface, covered with 600 grid waterproof sandpaper and sand wet, only lengthwise(!).
Also make sure all trailing edges (of which there are a lot on this bottom...) are sanded sharp, do not(!) sand them round, with rounded edges, the hull will stick to the water in a way you won't believe...

I made a few pieces of angled aluminum to fit between the strakes, attached waterproof sandpaper with double sided tape, so I would only touch those surfaces.
For the strakes I made fitting 'sanders' too.

Once you've worked over the entire running surface, removing the bumps, the gelcoat will be thin in some spots, and even will have been sanded off completely, that's only cosmetic, the hull is still watertight.

Water will cling to a sanded smooth hull and leave a waterfilm, this film has a lot less drag, than a shiny surface, giving you more speed with the same motor, prop and battery.

If there are remaining dimples in the running surface, you could fill them and sand them flat and smooth, but if the dimples are only minor, I wouldn't bother and just sand the surface dull throughout.

Regards, Jan.
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