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Old Aug 30, 2012, 08:43 AM
solentlife is offline
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222 km/hr Parkjet flyer
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Latvia, Ventspils pilsēta, Ventspils
Joined Jan 2010
11,387 Posts
Now not everyone will agree with me but here goes :

a) Control rods : I prefer combination rods of wood centre and then metal rod ends, but that's on big models where you have space in fuselage to fit. My next is bowden cable in tube ... bicycle cable and outer basically ... with soldered on threaded ends.
Third would be wire rods in tubes as many are fitted with today.

If it is all metal rod - then the best is to mount servo as close to surface as possible to shorten the rod.

b) Clevis - this is a matter of real personal preference but I'll give my 2 cents worth.
I used to use metal clevis wherever possible .. usually Dubro or similar. But stopped using them as they all tended to lose the springiness and 'arms' bent.
I changed to plastic / nylon with metal pins through for my large models, and all plastic / nylon for lesser ... Why ? They kept their springiness .. the metal pin versions were definitely strong enough, the smaller were self-locking ...
If a pin or locking failed - they're cheap enough to have a box full and change.

I haven't mentioned the rod to screw retainer that a lof are appearing with. A barrel with nut to the control horn .. pass control rod through .. tighten screw. Brilliant idea .. all my EDF's have them ...

If anyone doubts the strength of nylon / plastic clevis - then I dare this :

Connect up a rod / clevis and get an old crashed model ... connect clevis to a surface. Now pull on the blighter - I bet the surface or horn gives way before the clevis.

There is a final comment as well ... I prefer Z bends inside the model - as they are far better than any clevis for permanent fixture ... and you only need one end for adjustment - better to keep that accessible outside.

Nigel
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