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Old Jul 28, 2012, 02:04 PM
JayNZ is offline
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Joined Mar 2012
222 Posts
Hi guys.

The horizontal stab system is very simple. i mounted a 450 size servo up the front of the heli by the rear of the mechanics. got my self a du-bro flexi pushrod and secured the end of that to to the top side of the stab wing via a hole i drilled through it. the stab wing is hinged, so allows movement. this flex was then run all the way down the tail boom to the servo, and which time, you can see i made little wooden guides to make sure the flex cable is unable to flex at any point. this will cause you to lose travel. once i got it all running through the guides smoothly by hand, i trimmed the cable down, used a sevo horn, a 4m screw and a small collar nut to secure the cable to the servo right at the point the cable exits the plastic tube that covers it. (be careful here - leaving too much cable exposed will allow it to flex. Its really basic. i had never done it before. had no plans, and did no researching, it just seemed logical. it cost me $80nz so like 55 USD and 40Euros, to complete. a nice inexpensive add on. i have it on AUX 3 on my dx8, which is a rotating knob. this allows for trimming in flight instead of just having 3 settings.

Jose with my apache, the heli's horizontal stab is permanently set to a down position, in fast forward flight, my apache wants to tilt forward more than I THINK it would in normal flight mode. it effects the characteristics of a model airplane so im wondering, even though all the wash, it can still have an effect on the helis flight characteristics once you get enough air flow over it? im interested to find out if having a trim-able stab makes much difference. the UH-60 is a bit more hulky though so may be different. u have a 500 size or 600?

jan! AWESOME! Dude one of us is going to have to come to the other with our sister helis and we are going to have to start some formation flying with our hughes, apaches and blackhawks!!! hahah

As for my blackhawk, Shes grounded indefinitely unfortunately Due to stripping the gears in the elbow drive. Jan, i hope its not too late, but maybe ask to just buy the RCA kit without the elbow tail drive unit and just use the extra money to get the smartmodel raised tail drive. i explain why below. tbh, you probably couldnt use the 5deg angle tail drive from smart model though because the angle of the tail housing area only allows and upward slope of the tail boom from a low-positioned tail drive gearbox. you will get what i mean when you bird arrives. the RCA one is not up to the task, and uses odd shaped bevel gears so replacement is a nightmare.

anyways, I bought a set of spinblades, 600mm black matt scale blades and put them on, and reduced my throttle curve a lot to compensate for the heavier weight blades. 73 Grams up from 68on the tf model blades. I purely do this because i like to gradually increase my throttle curve over a few test flights to make sure the esc and motor are happy. They look abslolutely brilliant for scale, and by all accounts spinblades have a rigorous testing phase before marketing their products. heres the blades:

i got to 50% throttle, went to load the blades up and lift her off the ground and all the sudden i heard a grinding noise and lost tail authority on the ground.
ive noticed the elbow gear has never been that smooth since installing it. It always gave me a little vibration at the tail and was quite noisy. it just seems the gears couldnt handle the job. i wasnt even flying, i was just loading up the blades to just past 50%. so yeah i dont know what happened there but i do not recommend the RCA elbow drive. just doesnt seem like it can handle the rpms. there was no reason for it to chew out.

so, i will be buying a smartmodel raised tail drive.

I post more pics, as this has given me more time to make mods to the body while the mechanics are out of action. Ive added the fuel tanks, and am building a cockpit firewall which i will attach battery mounts to the rear side of also. back soon!
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Last edited by JayNZ; Jul 28, 2012 at 07:31 PM.
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