Originally Posted by Mikeamondo
Anyone know where there might be pics and or instructions for replacing the tail feathers? After many glorious hours flying my Champ, she is need of new ones... Only took one time hanging in the trees! New ones are on the way, but I cant find a guide on here for a newbie trying to replace them! Thanks!
No I haven't don't this but I found a good pic of the replacement parts that explain themselves. http://www.gravesrc.com/HOBBY_ZONE_C..._p/hbz4931.htm
davidterrell80's post is fine for folks with a little more scratchbuilding skills. The factory replacement are better in that they'll give you an -exact- fit with no work, and the right color already applied. BTW pay no attention to that man behind the rudder.
When you get the new ones, first make a *template* from the factory parts. Draw around them on paper with a pencil, and if you need to again later you can make another set. Maybe scan them, and you can print a template.
The h-stab sets directly on a flat surface after you peel off the old stab.
The v-stab/rudder however has two tabs that fit into mating slots in the fuse, one at the front of the stab and another at the bottom of the rudder. You'll need to dig/cut out the old stab material for the new
You'll need to untape the wheel/axle and remount on the new rudder. Actually I suggest saving the remount until the very last step so it's not in the way while you're mounting the new v-stab/rudder assembly.
According to the -picture- you'll need to unmount three parts from the old assembly becaues they're not included in the kit. There're two control horns, and a part that 'plugs' into the h-stab to hold it down, and then supports the v-stab. In the pic see those 4 holes in the h-stab, that's where that part plugs into.
Each horn has 3 parts, the long horn that goes through the surface, and two small square plates with a slot through them, one for each side of the surface that it's mounted to.
Those parts are nylon and you should have no problem digging them out of the old foam and scraping old material off them with thumbnail because it's very difficult to get -any- adhesive to stick reliably to nylon.
Mount the horns onto the rudder and elevator before assembling them onto the fuse, because it's easier to work on those tiny parts without the fuse in the way.
I'm not 100% sure if you can mount the h-stab first, and then the v-stab, or if they need to fit together 'all at once.' Do dry fits to find out about that. Things like this, I've done 20 dry fits to make *sure* it's gonna go right because very often you have only *one* chance to get it right.
Be as *stingy* as possible with the CA because it's very heavy!! I use a toothpick to transfer tiny-minute amounts of CA from the tip of the bottle to whatever joint I'm repairing. 'A drop' is waaaaay too much for any of these assembly points. For example after a horn/plates is fitted to a surface, I'd use one speckle-drop on each side where the horn goes onto the plate, and let it soak in, then another speckle-drop at a couple of spots where the plate mates to the surface, and let it wick under the plate. If you're seeing fillets of glue afterward -- that's too much glue. Fillets don't make any joint any stronger just heavier.
You'll need to adjust and center the throws on the rudder/elevator:
-- Hook up the control rods.
-- Turn on the transmitter, and plug a battery into the plane.
-- Set the transmitter trims to center.
-- If you've got subtrims zero them out too.
-- Eyeball the surfaces, and pinch/spread the 'U' shaped sections in the control rods till the rudder lines up *exactly* with the v-stab, and the elevator with the h-stab. Use something like a piece of 3x5 card or other thin cardboard, under good light, to get that alignment as *exact* as possible. Look at both sides of the rudder and top/bottom of the elevator very closely, look for light under the edges of the card. I'm gonna say it again: get this alignment as *exact* as possible because the more time you spend on this the more likely you'll have a more successful flight test with as little further trim as possible.
For completeness, triple check CG.
Triple check that the LG strut fairings are pointed as straight as possible.
Then, have a