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Old Apr 05, 2012, 11:26 PM
flyhigh300 is offline
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United States, TX, El Paso
Joined Nov 2010
762 Posts
Hey guy,

had not had time to look at the thread..

So some yes and no's here..

The top plate is 2.5mm thick .. I made a "fender washer" of G10 also 2.5mm thick.. thats on the bottom.. ( the part you cant quite see)

So the washer puts pressure on the boom.. its about 1-1/8 wide..

The boom can be locked in with a screws or zip tie as there is a screw hole for that.. and slots for zip ties...

zip tie slots are for those of us who plan to crash ...

But even if you drill a second hole..it could be that.. you will weaken the boom and it will break in a crash much easier..

I've slam .. and I mean slammed .. a Tri on the ass-fault ..( copter with 1/2x1/2 Aluminum booms slotted) .. and G10 came way chipped but no breaking.. while the booms where all twisted..

In any case its strong..

The Ideas with the second plate is that its mounted on a vibration isolation pad, (soft mount)

No metal or hard parts touch the top ..with the bottom plate.

You have an option to mount the flight board on top or bottom..

So far one person bolted there Power Distribution board on top and bottom for FC..


GoPro version cumming soon also guys..

OK enough talk..

Well as they say.. "Video or it did not happen".. well its not a crash video.. :-(

but here is the vid..


FPVDM tricopter beta + Naze32 (2 min 2 sec)



Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbif View Post
I like too! I like the thought of the design.

However I disagree with.........

"4. The arms are not connected to the top and body panels they are only connected to the top plate which should help protect the frame. This way the g10 wont crack from pressure, worst comes to worse you just loose an arm"


G10 plates are pretty darn strong, and it would take a heck of a hit with some dense/hard wood arms to crack a G10 plate before the wood arm itself cracks absorbing crash energy.
With the lower part of the arm not "clamped" between equal size frame pieces, I could see more stress being applied to the "hinge point" of the wooden arm.
However I do see a hidden plate I think in the 3rd picture that clamps the arms from the bottom? I cant quite tell. I would recommend extending that piece to the same width as the top frame piece.

Cant wait to see more!
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