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Old Mar 07, 2012, 09:02 AM
xlcrlee is offline
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Zurich
Joined Apr 2006
4,893 Posts
well-proven motor changing procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbjbasdw View Post
I think it could be the motor going bad. I think I may have to resort to ordering some from China next week. Anyone know of a video/pictures that show how to change a motor over ?
1. Loosen the motor hold-down piece and rotate to allow the motor to come up and out.

2. Loosen the swashplate yaw stabilizer fork piece and pull upward enough to allow the motor to pass it.

3. Push the motor up from underneath with a sharp toothpick or the point of a small pair of scissors. Push on the MOTOR, not the shaft, if you ever want to use the motor again! Let the motor hang over the side by its wires.

4. Unscrew and CAREFULLY remove the canopy

5. Put CA gel [NOT liquid!!] copiously around all the PCB soldered wire joints, and on the wire ends of the LEDs inside the canopy. Allow to HARDEN!
[The idea is to strongly link the wire-end insulation to the PCB or the LED. It is far too easy to otherwise break off the joint .... and nearly impossible to properly resolder! To resolder the LED, one must first carefully pry out the LED from behind].

6. Unwind and separate the motor wires [if you didn't use CA gel first, at this point you could kill the heli]. Use a small pair of scissors to cut the motor wires of the motor you will replace, noting that left and right motors are different and cannot be interchanged > cut the wires about 7cm/2.5" from the PCB joint, leaving this short amount to use to connect the new motor wires [instead of trying to solder to the PCB].

7. Strip the ends of the short wires still connected to the PCB.

8. Tin/pre-solder all four wire ends to be soldered > leave as large a blob of solder as practical on each end.

9. Carefully thread the new motor wires exactly as the other factory-installed motor. A sharp toothpick and pincet/tweezers are necessary.

10. NOW push the motor down and in place and re-lock it and push down the swashplate yaw stabilizer fork and retighten both screws.

11. Make a cardboard shield to protect the heli and ESPECIALLY the LIPO!!

12. Pull the wire ends through a slot in the shield and butt-solder red-red and blue-blue [I assume you will replace the long-shafted right motor now].

13. Make sure the wires are well clear of the rotor and turn on the Tx and heli.

14. Check that the LEDs and servos still work, else they must be resoldered
[extremely unlikely if you used CA gel in 5. above!].

15. Quickly check that both motors work, and turn off heli & Tx.

16. Put the shield back in place and put glob of CA gel around the joints for insulation and strength and heat-cure with a hairdrier.

17. Don't re-twist the wires, just carefully stuff them to the side and slightly in front of the LIPO.

18. Carefully re-install the canopy

19. Make sure the pinion is in optimal vertical location: slide up/down to test, holding heli inverted and turning rotor in REVERSE by hand.

20. Re-lube gears.

21. Test-fly!


I can do this in about 40 min for one motor and 70 min for both.


Lee
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