View Single Post
Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:05 PM
NewarkAndy is offline
Find More Posts by NewarkAndy
Registered User
Joined Oct 2011
19 Posts
I preface this by saying that I'm not an expert on (A) building models, (B) glue and epoxy chemistries, and (C) woodworking, although I have experience with all three.

Gorilla Glue was formulated for bonding highly resinous woods like Teak, that have so much oil and resin in them and are very dense, so standard PVA glues (typical wood glues like Elmers and Tightbond) don't work well on them. For that purpose it seems to work, although there seems to be general agreement in the community that there are better products for that specific application.

Gorilla Glue has been heavily marketed as being a universal do-it-all glue. While it is true that it binds nearly anything to nearly anything else, it is also true that in pretty much every case there is a better adhesive to use than GG.

I have a number of problems with GG. First, it is messy and a pain to work with. The foaming is difficult enough to deal with on woodworking projects that I can clamp in a vise to clean up. I don't want to think what I'd do with GG on a balsa airframe. Secondly, it doesn't store well, so you waste most of whatever you buy. It is a very poor value. Third, the chemicals released during curing are carcinogenic so you should wear a respirator when using it. Like anything else, take precautions as you see fit.

I like hot glue on airplanes and I agree that you may be using too much of it. I see no reason to melt a line of glue along an entire joint. A few spots here and there will provide holding power, remain flexible, and be easily repaired.
NewarkAndy is offline Find More Posts by NewarkAndy
Reply With Quote