Originally Posted by DerekB
You continue to amaze me with your ingenious resources!! Thanks
So we are on our own for lights
, - that's OK
. For the lights, I'm leaning towards the DELight system I linked above. Their LEDs are $5 each "15 lumens, 120 degree beam angle, half-watt surface mount LED, an appropriate current-limit resistor and a 24" lightweight wire pigtail terminating in a universal servo-type connector.
" Is this similar brightness to yours? Also, any other LED can be used. Half watt? OK for indoor use.
The DELight controller can be programmed to activate the landing light with the retract switch. I have not seen or used the DELight Controller
, it might be better than my lights, or just the same.
For the retracts, I will order both shafts, but use the 3mm motor shafts first, for less work and see how it goes. I presume the C-clip from the stock gear will work on the 3mm shafts? I don't have any spares - do you have a link for C-clips for 3mm and 4mm shafts? Any other special parts for the gear mods? Yes, the stock will fit OK, just don't lose it.
I'd still like to know how you did the sequencer
for the front gear doors
. Posted below. Connect the sequencer to the receiver. Then, connect the nose retract and door servo to the sequencer. Sequencer will do the timing job. Nothing to adjust on the sequencer module.
The metal gear servo on the flaps is a great idea. I will get those since they experience constant force.
Do you still like the Detrum/Dynam 9 gram servos for the other control surfaces? Yes
My apology. Been really busy here with a new project & unable answer all your questions.
1. Yes, Dentrum works great! & still recommends.
2. For flaps, I recommend metal gear or you're taking chances. http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3450105
3. for steering servo, the same metal gear, or 9gram nylon could strip on landing as well.
4. 4mm - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCE9&P=7
5. 3mm - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCE8&P=7
*Main gear does not need C-clip, hex grub screw is all it needs to hold/lock the wires in place.
6. sequencer - http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2207
7. Door - http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2374
I used dremmel and Heat gun to size and shape it with the 737 nose. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO BE COMFORTABLE WITH THIS MOD. If not done nicely, door or doors may NOT open before landing. I have never had any issues with mine so far. Just remember that there are 2 nose wheels, make sure that none of them would "jam" when door closes/opens. I cycled mine a hundred times before maiden (upside down and upright position).
- I did NOT use the casing.
FROM : http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/RCLights.htm
I DO NOT RECOMMEND MY NAV LIGHTS THE WAY I DID IT. With the same light system, I do RECOMMEND this for less money, less work, more options, simplicity & etc. I made my own because I don't know whom to ask and don't know of any one that knows better. I found LAZERTOYZ, only after
I figured out my own design. Have I tried Lazertoyz module? NO. But sure won't recommend it if am not confident about it. I have recommended this to one of the RC "guru" here in RCGrps, and he can't be happier about the results after so many lights he has tried and spent before.
BOTH from: http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/RCLights.htm
3. THEN USE THESE, BUT you may want to contact and ask Lazertoyz and find out how well the module will "power-up" 1 watt LEDs all at once
, since I have NOT tried it as mentioned.
OR JUST SEARCH EBAY FOR BETTER PRICING
* Lazertoyz will have your stuff at your doorstep in 3-5 days, USPS
* Flytron, about 4-6weeks at least! Turkish Mail
Words from Flytron:
It is allowing 2 different working modes, RC mode or Standalone.
Power it with directly from battery (4-6v) it works on Standalone mode and strobes continuously.
Plug it on your RC receiver’s any channel for RC mode, then you can On/Off it over servo channel.
We tested it since months and followed the flashes from 2km at the dark without any problem.
* my klm with 60 degree diffuser:
As a copy and paste to your inquiry (PM) and to share with others:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE METAL GEAR servos for flaps use or even for the rest of the control surfaces. I have nylons on my flaps and has been addicted taking off, flying, and landing with flaps. But after lots & lots of flights, the nylon gears is NOT performing the way it should be anymore due to the amount of flights & thrust that my motors BLOWING towards my flaps. Servos sometimes do not center anymore, or "gives", compromised torque, and etc. And when one side (flaps) does not equally perform as the other side, they act as an aileron in the air! BOTTOM LINE, high torque servos are recommended due to engine thrust pushing the the flaps. I have been using these servos http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3450105 and guarantees its performance and price is a smart BUY!
Others may have not experienced nylon flap servos GOING BAD, but I fly a lot. I never had trouble in the beginning, and wished I used metal gears. They are now replaced, but again, repairs is much more difficult than doing it right the first time.
THOUGH I USE 1OAMP CC BEC ON MY RECEIVER, I RUN A DEDICATED CHEAP 3A BEC FOR MY LIGHT SYSTEM/DESIGN
. This will give me a piece of mind that my lights' power consumption does not interfere with the receiver. Or any short from wirings, strobe module short, burn out & etc. will not affect the receiver (not good if there would be & they all share one BEC). Same thing why Automobils isolate/separate fuses. My BECs are SOLDERED with the ESC's + & - terminals
. As seen on my video, I have VERY minimal (4) terminals that I have to plug-in, & the wing bolts to get up flying
Using the FMS sequencer above, PLEASE "sequence" or cycle your door/retract switch TWICE before take off. FMS retracts is not same as ChangeSUN
HAVE FUN ON YOUR BUILD GUYS.
Still enjoys flying my KLM., Happy landings...
(I don't usually check the thread, sorry...)
EDIT (08/23/2012): I HAD THE CHANCE TO TRY OUT THE MAXI-LIGHTS CONTROLLER MODULE. NOT IMPRESSED WITH THE LIGHT INTENSITY USING 1 WATT LEDs.