View Single Post
Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:43 PM
Aquila Guy is offline
Find More Posts by Aquila Guy
AMA 5285 LSF 8104
Aquila Guy's Avatar
United States, OR, Hood River
Joined Aug 2008
343 Posts
Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
Hint: on a table saw, the smallest size you can saw depends partly on what the gap is between the blade and the slot in the cover plate around it.

In most cases, there is enough gap that anything thin enough to work in a model tends to fall down into the slot and gets destroyed. That gap is so you can tilt the blade to 45 degrees or so, which we normally don't need to do for most of our stuff.

The solution is to get a sheet of thin plywood (1/16" will do). Some of that 1' x 4' you can get at your LHS will do. Fit the table saw with a fine-toothed blade (often called a "veneer" blade). Retract the table saw blade enough to be below the table surface.

Cut the length of the ply to match the fore-and-aft length of the table, then tape it in place centered over the blade slot. With any luck, you can still fit the rip fence back in place.

Now, turn the table saw on, and slowly crank the blade back up. This will cut a slot in the ply that exactly matches the blade with nearly zero gap. Shut down, retract the blade again, and gently sand off any wood fuzz or scraps that are hanging around the slot in the ply.

With this new custom-made cover plate in place, you can cut almost any thickness of strips you want, in many cases less than 1/32" thick. I've made .020" square rosewood strips on my little Dremel table saw for inlay work on wooden pennywhistles, and other folks use a variation of this for making the tiny wooden tiles for the rosettes around guitar sound holes. It will certainly work for slicing 2x4's into spar stock, even on a full-sized table saw.
God I love this group.... learn something new every day!! Thanks Don!

Aquila Guy is offline Find More Posts by Aquila Guy
Reply With Quote