Well I finally got my pogo pins in the post, so I knocked up a quick programming clip, attached my programmer & got flashing. 6 18A & 6 30A rctimer esc's are now running tgy.hex. The ones I've tested seem pretty good.
As requested here are a few pics of my programming adapter.
Step 1 - Solder wires between 6 pin header & ends of pogo pins - you've got to keep the joints on the pins neat as there's not a lot of space when they're assembled.
Step 2 - cut probe ends off the pogo pins leaving the end of the sprung shaft with a nice sharp clipped edge - there's no space in there for the full width heads.
Step 3 - insulate pogo pins with a bit of pvc tape - just a couple of wraps round is all there's room for. Line up the pins with ends of the sprung probes level & at the right spacing for the programming pads & hot glue them together - use plenty so it's a good solid block & the pins don't flex.
Step 4 - Glue the assembled pogo pins to the cut down (about 1/2") end of a sprung clothes peg with plenty of hot glue for a rigid assembly.
The pins clip onto the programming pads with a nice consistent contact, the long arm of the peg clips under the flat heatsink, so you've got a nice quick hands free solution. I've found it fairly easy to use but you do have to be careful with the alignment when you clip it on. I always do a hardware check using the gui to confirm it's reading the chip okay before I try to flash anything.I'm using a mysmartusb light programmer from myavr, which emulates a stk500v2 & myavr's own gui based programming software - really nice & simple for flashing hexes & setting fuses.