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Old Sep 06, 2011, 11:15 AM
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Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
Thanks Tom and i did read the facts at the first posts nothing about my problem with the shutting down so when i asked i gave "All" the info i could about my cam incase it was relevant to the problem i am having, that being redness in pic - searching - shutting down - beeping noise

the first i got this cam i charged it up in the car and used it to record a trip we did sitting it on the dash of the car and using the car charger, this cam has been charged with the car connector and then on the computer after i have downloaded the files, should i put it on my car to charge instead of the computer?

as said after it has shut down i have started it up again and got another 14 minute flight without it turning off, does this still point to a faulty battery?

anyone had any luck with after sales service from these guys? ("eletoponline365" ) or do we just buy another and hope for better luck next time?

anyway here is a short vid i did yesterday where my prop broke, this was the 4th flight for the day and the cam had turned off on the second flight, was still working fine here and you can see and hear what i was talking about

cheers chuck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD-27mKzBbE
That intermittant buzzing sound is what the FAQs reference when the battery voltage is low. As you likely know from your flight lipo batteries, their voltage under load will drop, substantially depending on how the amp load compares to the batteries C rating. And then when the load is removed, the voltage will recover. I think that is what is happening with your camera. But it's not normal that you should get a 10-15 min. video, then another one after it shuts down. It's possible your battery has a higher than normal internal resistance, so it's dropping the voltage more than nromal under load (causing the camera to shut down), then recovers to a fairly high voltage after resting with still a lot of it's original capacity intact, so it can then repeat that cycle. My flight batteries typically die a slow death like that. They will charge to a pretty normal voltage, but they just can't hold the voltage when powering the motor. There is also a slight chance your camera might have some temperature-related issue that causes the camera to shut down after 10-15 min. A long recording test using the car charger can determine if that is the case, in which case a camera replacement would be needed.

You should charge your battery using a standard USB cord for safest results because that will control the charge cycle via the camera's internal charging IC chip. When you use the car charger, it supplies 5V to the camera circuit board in parallel with the battery, and only the battery's small integral over-voltage protection circuit board keeps the battery from being nuked. If that circuit board is not working properly, you could be subjecting the battery to an unsafe and damaging voltage. Also, if you charge a depleted battery by that method, the camera's charging controller IC is bypassed, so you might be charging initially at too high a C rate, again possibly damaging the battery. It's best to only connect the car charger when the camera has a fully charged battery and is recording to add some load to the external power supply. Note these are just my opinions, and there is no conclusive evidence that there is anything wrong with the camera's design that causes the battery to degrade abnormally. You could have a battery that was weak right from the factory.

If your memory card checks out OK and you can record without the camera shutting down prematurely when using the car charger, then I'd conclude your battery is a bad apple and ask your vendor for a replacement battery. You'll need to replace the battery at some point anyway, so if the camera is otherwise working OK, there's not much point in exchanging it.

I watched the video, and the color issues there are consistent with my small version #11 and many other videos you'll see posted here. There is slight darkening and color shift near the frame corners and right/left edges. This is caused by the lens vignetting (light drop off). There is a reddish "hot spot" in the center of the frame, also a lens issue. Both of these are correctable during post processing editing if you have the inclination to do so (see FAQs or search the thread for more info). The CMOS array in this camera seems to also have a color saturation shift as light level changes, making off-colors look more noticeable. Decreasing color saturation during editing can help with this, too. Otherwise, it's something we have to live with in an inexpensive HD camera like this unless the developer can find a better CMOS/lens module.

Finally, there a color hue shift from slightly "warm" (yellow tint) when the light level rises to some trigger point to slightly "cool" blue tint when the light level drops back below that point. The shift can be quite sudden and it's very annoying when it happens, such as with an aerial video where the plane's slight pitching causes the horizon to rise and fall in the frame, causing the light level to cross over that trigger point frequently. I'm hoping (and have asked recently) that the developer see if this can be tweaked in the CMOS configuration setting or in the video processor settings so that the color stays consistent throughout the video. If the color then still has a slightly warm or slight cool tint, at least it can be easily corrected with an editor.

Your Ebay vendor, and all the others listed in post #2, have given good after sales service and support based on the user feedback here.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Sep 06, 2011 at 11:21 AM.