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Old Jul 18, 2011, 07:53 AM
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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We are still adding pictures and refining the details but the instructions are fairly complete and can be seen here.

Building Videos. From Start to Flight

#1 Gluing and spars
#2 Motor mounts and spars
#3 Shock Cord
#4 Tape and Laminate
#5 Elevons and Hinges
#6 Servos, wires and fins
#7 Prepare to Fly
#8 Maiden Flight with plane we built

Launching and Take Off's
It has a unique skid that protects the motors and props.
The skid acts like a ski to take off pavement, dirt, packed snow or mowed grass.
The skid is in the right place for grip and balance so the plane can easily be hand launched.
The skid is on the CG so the plane balances in your hand.
The skid gives a solid finger hold for hand launching.
The skid is simple, solid and strong and more durable and trouble free than wheels.
The skid elevates the camera for better view on take offs.
The skid elevates the nose of the plane creating ground effect to shorten take off distances.
The EPP skid acts like a shock absorber on landings to protect expensive FPV gear.
The skid design performs like a tail-dragger style landing gear on the ground.
The weight forward design that lets it fly off rough ground without flipping the plane.
Movable rudder(s) steer the plane on the ground.

How many threads for FPV discuss the aerobatic capability of the plane?
The Hercules does some of the prettiest grass touch and goes I have seen.
The plane is stable and easy to fly upside down with the camera attached.
It will easily do inside and outside loops.
It can do figure 8s, Cuban 8s and vertical 8s.
It is stable in tight turns without snap rolling.
It can do near vertical decent with the nose up (if CG is right).
It will not do knife edge
I have flown trainers that are harder to take off, fly and land.

Includes Laminate
Each kit comes with clear UV shielded laminate covering included as part of the kit.
The clear laminate is strong and durable and doesn't show repairs and seams.
The laminate is stronger and easier to apply than Ultracoat and other laminates.
The laminate will stick to the EPP foam without an adhesive spray.
The clear laminate works well with LED lighting for night visibility on FPV night flights.
Holographic tape gives a professional look without much work.
Search for "Holographic tape" available from "paperstreetplastics" on Ebay

Shipping advantage
This is a big plane. We have designed the plane to get reasonable shipping rates.
Each wing half is cut into a front and rear section so it can be shipped in a smaller box.
Our box is sized for lower foreign and domestic postage rates for this size of plane.
Planes are shipped Parcel Post in the USA saving big bucks

Why do we suggest you install the radio and batteries after covering the plane?

Many flyers build our planes using more traditional method of putting all of their radio in one compartment.
They install the radio before they cover the plane and cover over the top.
They lay the servos down and hide them in the wing.
I have to admit it is prettier and seems logical.

All parts of the wing structure should contribute to the strength and durability of the plane.
The wing is made from EPP foam that resists crushing
Top and bottom spars create an "I-beam" that is many times stronger than a single spar alone.
Spars add compression strength
Reinforced tape adds tension strength to prevent tearing
The shock cord helps prevent the most common tear in a wing that happens with a frontal impact.
Our strong laminate makes the plane into a uni-body structure so all parts work together.
Our EPP elevons don't break and can bend with the wing protecting the hinge line.

Our years of combat have taught us to make the parts easy to get to and change.
Having quick access to the radio makes it so repairs take minutes not hours.
The plane is stronger and more crash resistant if there is no empty space in the wing.
I build and laminate the wing then go back and cut holes for the servos radio and batteries.
This helps me to judge the CG and get the parts in the right place.
It lets me cut the bare minimum amount of foam out of the wing making the wing stronger.
The radio and batteries become part of the structure of the wing.
I route wires though razor blade slits that cut through the tape and laminate and press in the wires.
I'm careful not to cut through reinforced tape and spars that are needed for strength.
I cover the slits with a clear piece of clear tape over the top.
I tape the receiver in place so I can see the power light and have easy access to bind to the transmitter.
If I have to replace a part, I pull off the tape, replace the part then replace the tape.
I glue the servo in the wing with a hot glue gun rather than gluing mounting brackets in the wing.
I stand the servo up with the servo arm barely exposed on the top of the wing.
I only put glue on the top edges and ends on the servo so I can get it out without cutting the foam.
The servo becomes part of the wing and is very solid without much work.
If I need to replace a servo I use my heat gun to soften the glue and replace the servo.
The pushrods are on the outside of the wing so they don't bind and are easier to install, inspect and service.
I put the pushrod under the servo arm to keep it close to the wing.
I put a staple over the middle of the push rod to keep it from bending and glue it in the wing.
Batteries are protected if the flat side of the battery faces forward rather than an end or edge.
The battery can withstand an extreme hit in this position without wire damage or mushrooming.
This does tend to leave the battery wire to ESC wire plugs on the top of the wing.
Having the battery wires exposed makes changing the batteries simple without weakening the plane.
Our years of combat have taught us to try to make repairs and battery changes as painless as possible.

We are still adding pictures and refining the details but the instructions are fairly complete and can be seen here.

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Last edited by Lee; Nov 25, 2011 at 09:12 PM.
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