Originally Posted by Tom Frank
I was planning to open the card holder cover... i think possible by de-soldering a tab or two and prying it open. I've got a dead No. 3 I can experiment on first if I decide to do it... maybe can even desolder the whole card holder and replace it!
Originally Posted by jims123
Yes. Tom, i think if you were very patient and had a very sharp tiny blade for a jewlers screwdriver you might be able to get the cover pried open from the 4 tabs at the corners .. but it will likely bend that thin sheet metal and be hard to get on again properly.. good Luck tho..
I've removed the card cover about 7 or 8 times on various #3s and actually find it quite easy; well certainly much easier than removing a capacitor/resistor/diode or the memory chip. You don't need any special tools except a fairly fine-tipped soldering iron and a jewelers' screwdriver to pry the tags up from the board. Initially I used a +30 year-old Weller soldering iron and it worked perfectly. It's just important not to inadvertently heat any surrounding components, or they may drop off or lose contact with the board. I never managed to bend the casing either
For the last couple of removals I used Chip Quik and solder braid. I have completely fallen in love with that stuff! However, since the pads are quite large, there is not much danger of "lifting" them if you are careful and don't apply heat too long, so Chip Quik is not really necessary.
However, the most difficult part is the latch "spring", or better said "wire". It is absolutely tiny, and I remember with the first case I opened that I didn't even see it. It dropped onto the floor without me noticing it. I realized that something was "missing" and opened up a second #3, where I saw what I had lost.
After a lot of looking and with the use of a magnet, I found the first "wire" on the floor.
The moral of this story is that you should have a very tidy, clean and flat work area with good lighting.
Unless you have very good eyesight, you'll need a magnifying glass to properly position this "wire" into the latch mechanism.
My #11 SD card slot is exactly the same as my #3 card slot, but that doesn't mean that there may be different models, as Jim has pointed out.
I have always "repaired" the slot by removing the casing, I have never replaced the whole unit, so I can't say how difficult that would be. However, I would not attempt that without using Chip Quik - the risk of "lifting" pads because of the high heat is too high.