Thread: Build Log HMS Beagle 1:36
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 07:49 PM
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Bozeman, Montana, United States
Joined Aug 2003
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There is a method in the madness; once you perceive it, then the spider's nest will start to make sense :-).

There is a lot of rigging and RC planning that must be done before you start drilling holes for screweyes, deadeyes, zillion-eyes :-). I use a lot of blue masking tape while working everything out. I think I rigged a mast just stuck in a board clamped to my table the first time. Making test rigs is a respected technique to illuminate kinks and pitfalls. Subsequent squarerigger builds will go faster. You are delving into a technical profession with 1000 years of background study and testing, you'd not think that was going to be as easy as programming a computer, would you *grin*. I've been studying squareriggers for 50 years, and I still am learning neat things every time I build (from old salts and neophytes both), it's a great hobby.
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To perhaps answer your question about small yards + small masts (missed it before, sorry) : I've yet to have a failure of 1/8" topgallant masts or yards at sea. The sails supported by the thinnest yards are small; and the masts are supported by stays, fore and aft. And if the wind is strong, you are going to strike those yards/sails anyway, that's just good seamanship.

I use the smallest brass screweyes available at Ace Hardware for yard hangers. Steel ones are a lot cheaper, I just prefer the look of brass.

If I am end drilling a dowel, I plan on reinforcing the dowel end with a wrapping of thread+thin CA (it's called a "doubling" or a "serving" in nautical speak). Sometimes I'll double first, before drilling.

Drilling through-holes in small dowels is easier if you hold them in a V-block (made from V's filed in a chunk of wood, different size V's for different dia. dowels). The drill will try to wander, especially in the small drill sizes necessary. Two tricks: a) file a flat on the dowel where you intend to drill b) rotate the yard in the V-block to counter any skidding of the drill bit - a little practice will show you which way to rotate. I drill with the "sensitive drill attachment" on my Sherline mill. I can use the handwheels to help position the V-Block . There are fancy ways to ensure your flat (or your un-flatted dowel) is precisely centered under the drill bit (to stop wandering), but I find it simpler and faster to do it by eye, handwheel, and rotation of the dowel.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Drill break, sawdust flies, etc.
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Last edited by Brooks; Apr 21, 2011 at 08:08 PM.
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