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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:17 PM
Freddie B is offline
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Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakumar View Post
Hi Fred,

I am glad I found this awesome thread!

However, I work with Balsa / SolarLite and was wondering how well this technique works in that case.

[1] How to glue the decal to the shrink wrap covering?
[2] For lettering, is the decal transparent enough to be invisible (for the part
where there is no lettering)?

Thanks,
Sanjaya
Thanks for checking in and you comments with questions. I have not used Solarlite, unless it also known by a different name. The decals will work with many shrink coverings, especially many of the lightweight 'polyester' or sometimes called synthetic tissue kinds. Since these coverings can be painted, similar methods can be used, even down to Krylon as the top coat instead of say WBPU.

You can even use them on some of the mylar type coverings, like monocote, orcacover, etc, but I'd use 3M Super 77 spray glue to get the decal on the plastic. 3M glue is so agressive though there is a learning curve on applying the glue and handling the decals with the glue on them! Toothpicks and some transfer sheets come to mind. I often make most of my trim on true mylar, out of mylar when possible though.

The decals do blend in well with many kinds of materials (the edges), but always test on some scrap to see the results. Wearing reading glasses and some sharp #11 blades and scissors, I can trim a decal right to the printed edge when it might not 'blend in' and get some very clean results.

Of course these work with regular tissue and silkspan, probably about as best as any material!

Good luck! Post some results and we all can see how it turned out.

Fred
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