Originally Posted by yabbadaba2
Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.
When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.
When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!
Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.
I just asked Yabba that question, and he confirmed then, and again just now, that he has one of each and both were converted successfully. So we can rule that out as the tell tale, which confirms what the vendor told me... there is no way to tell visually!
I have also asked My Camera Guy about the two different battery wire termination schemes, and why the two different methods. It may be something simple, like one way is easier or faster to do without risking accidentally shorting the battery wires during soldering (mine are very close together and could be easily bridged with solder if not careful)! If you look closely, both schemes terminate the wires in about the same location, just on opposite sides of the circuit board, and those points may have continuity through the board.