**SEMFF WWII combat planes 31 designs with plans and video**
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Dec 31, 2010
, 08:54 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
Joined Dec 2006
VLF Style Build Guide
FW-190 VLF Build
I am working on a build guide for the VLF style models that I will post a link to in the first thread.
Got some other things to do at the moment. We'll let the pictures do the talking for now.
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Starting with a fresh FW-190 kit.
An old toothbrush works well for getting out the machine operation fuzzies.
Kit ready to start.
These left overs from the part tabbing need to be gently removed.
Dry fit looks good. Looking for any potential problems in this step.
The wing spar is made from two 1/8" dia. x 24" long poplar dowels. This is the one I salvaged out of my P-40.
Soak the center section for 30-60 minutesin warm water and bend to the required dihedral. Hold in place to dry with either a fixture or clamp blocks to a table.
Once dry, glue one over the other. CA works well here.
Move over to the horizontal stab/elevator assembly. I hinge mine with #m Nexcare plastic bandage tape.
Fold over against each other and sand the bevel smooth so that it moves easily in either direction.
Do the same for the ailerons now that you have some practice.
Pre-bend the dihedral breaks in both the Main Wing and KF Step Panels.
Make spar assembly fits properly. Make any adjustments if needed now.
Put glue in bottom of spar slot, and install the spar. Make sure it is seated fully into the spar pocket.
Moisten with water the Main Wing Panel, put the glue on the KF Step Panel. Make sure to spread it smoothly and thin.
Now its time to clamp. I used four pieces of 1"x4"x15" maple boards to give me a hard flat clamping surface.
Now the wing can support itself and everything still looks good. No issues!
Start with the center and intermediate laminations.
Only the FW-190 has this assymmetrical condition in the nose. This is to allow for larger ESC and or more wire in there. Pay attention to LH and RH panels at this point.
The wire routing channels are important to make sure they are clear of any expand glue. It is easier to clean them out if need be before putting the outer laminations on.
Spread the glue thinly but completely. The trick is to get 100% coverage without getting overage. If I had to make a mistake, I think I would rather have too much than not enough.
Use a bit painters tape to keep things aligned. I like this better than the short wood pins that earlier designs incorporated.
Clamp it up. I tried these clamps from Home Depot. They barely develop enough pressure to make sure of no air gaps. I would not recommend them. I used 2 1"x6"x24" maple boards for clamping.
The center is done. At this point you want to make sure your servo wire channels are clear. Also if you are building an earlier VLF with the horizontal servo, you need to make a wire channel to the Rx cavity befor installing the outer laminations.
Clean out these little expanded bits of glue out of the internal cavities.
This is a must do mod for the VLF models. Most only need one near the wing, but the FW-190 is a little thin on top to. Plastic banding material or toungue depressors or 1/16" ply .625"w x 5" long.
This is the trickiest part of the fuselage. Make sure not to get glue in the hatch land areas. Wipe them off if you do. But you can clean the later if you need to. Hold in place with some tape, and a couple of filler pieces in the wing area helps to keep
Nice clamps, but when they are this wide open it it difficult to get sufficient pressure. Going to return them to Home Depot.
While the fuselage it curing lets turn our attention to the final touches on the wing.
Cleaning up expanded glue. These straight handled knives are the cat's pajamas when it comes to working on these models. Lots of reach and good for flush cutting.
Mark out LE and tip chamfer lines. 1/2" in from the edge.
Then cut the foam off between the lamination line and the 1/2" chamfer line.
Root transition detail.
Sanding goes very quickly. I use 150 grit on a 12" wood ruler and 220-280 on a sanding bar. Along with some rolled up to get the inside radii.
Blend the top back to about 50% of the KF Step Panel chord. The LE radius is really only on the Main Wing Panel.
Now we need to slice of as much as is practical. This makes short work of the sanding process and nice blending transitions.
A little filler piece in thin areas help support them while sanding them smooth.
These areas I like to do after the adjacent parts are instlalled. Otherwise they tend to get torn up.
Here is the finish bare airframe. 85g so far. Weighing all the hardware is going to add 124g, including the battery, pushrods, etc.
Last edited by dz1sfb; Jan 01, 2011 at
. Reason: Updated information in the pictures