Router Cut Aileron Mod by ScrtSqrl
I saw a while back, someone use a router to do his aileron mod. Nothing original here.
I think it is the best way to cut ailerons into the wing because very little other material is required.
See Fig 1 for the type of bit I used.
1. Mark out the ailerons using a marker. Span-wise, I used the length and location roughly scaled down from EZG ailerons. Length-wise, they are identical to the EZG ailerons.
2. Cut the length wise edges first, all the way through, using the router. This way, the aileron's outline is visible on both sides of the wing. (Fig 2)
3. Adjust the depth of the router, such that it is about 1/3 of the wing depth at the aileron's root. The idea is to leave about 1/3 of the wing's thickness, which will serve as the hinge material at the aileron's root after you rout out both sides of the hinge line.
4. Use a ruler to guide the router going from one wing root to the other, defining the hinge line. Do this on both sides. Be careful not to cut the aileron off.
5. Then patiently, work the aileron up and down, much like you did for the elevator and rudder. Go slow because you don't want to tear the material. After about 20-30 cycles, it should be really flexible...a perfectly hinged aileron.
6. Mark out the dimensions of the servo, including the space required for the servo arm, leaving enough space for it to move freely. I installed my servo under the wing. (Fig 3 & 4)
7. Adjust the router's bit depth so that it is identical to the servos thickness. (Fig 5)
8. Route out the servo hole. Start with the outline in. Do this on a cutting board and not on the kitchen top...just in case the bit goes through. (Fig 6 & 7)
I like my servo linkages to be over the wing. I think it reduces the risk of damaging them during landings.
9. Locate the servo hole by putting the wing in front of a bright light (Fig 8) then route out the channel for the servo arm and links (Fig 9 & 10)
10. Cut out slots for the the servos mounting tabs and cable. I used a knife for a snugger fit. (Fig 11) The servo should fit perfectly (Fig 12)
11. Install the linkages. I used components taken from my "retired" Belt CP. They make for a very precise set-up. A bit of CA under the control horn adds a bit of security. (Fig 13 - 16). Note that the control horn is located in the middle of the aileron
12. The geometry should be such that when the aileron displaces more when it is "pulled" up than it is when it is "pushed" down. This will minimize adverse yaw. (Fig 18 & 19)
13. Route out a channel for the wire. The bit should be just enough to stuff the wire into the wing. (Fig 20)
14. Stuff the servo wire and extension into the channel. Secure with packing tape. The packing tape and wire should add some tensile strength to the wing's under surface. (Fig 21)
15. Of course, you do all these steps on both wings so that you set bit depth once per step and assure that they are identical on both sides. (Fig 22)
16. Attach wings to the fuse. Power up and check for correct throws. Marvel at the finished product! (fig 23 - 27)
Hope this helps someone.
Let me know if you have any questions.