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Old Nov 07, 2010, 12:03 PM
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Slotting EyePlane Wing for Spars and LE dowels:

11/16 update:

These conceptual drawings are OK...

Updated and final drawings are located in post # 62!


Welcome back!

I woke up again WAY TOO early! So I’m going to take a break after this post.

Well... kind of a break...

I have several “Case Molds” to complete for the EyePod high temp vacuum forming bucks (I’ll be posting over in the EyePod thread later today with photos and a “how to” and why on case molds as well as posting another EyePod video. This video was taken from my tiny ICON kit just to give you an idea of how small a plane can easily carry the EyePod mount.(The ICON was reviewed here at rcgroups not too long ago).

Link for ICON build (TONS of photos as well as videos!): http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1058337

Ok… back to the building of our EyePlane:

Since my last post, I completed the angular sanding and photographed both the top and bottom of the wings together to show the difference… (I’ve been getting mixed up and right before I grooved the wrong side of a wing panel for the spar, I finally took some masking tape, and labeled the bottom of the wings (I suggest you do the same!)

I normally figure out easy and efficient methods for completing tasks on a kit from a perspective of having a minimal amount of tools and probably working on a kitchen table… If you have more to work with, great! Go for it! But if you are one of those who want to join in and might only have an Xacto blade working on your kitchen tale, let's see what we can do... (I rember clearing out my apartment living room in the mid 80's where I designed and built the Telos prototypes, created the molds and began production... My only "pwer tool" for a year, was a one speed Dremel and I remember thinking I had it made and could conquer the world... and I did,,, sort of... for a while before orders came in and I realized I was going need a LOT more tools and a MUCH LARGER shop! lol!

By the way!!! If you are working on a kitchen table, go buy a ” Melamine coated shelf at Lowes or Home Depot! (You can usually find a 48" x 10" laminated shelf for about $5-$10...) It will not only save your table, but many kitchen tables are warped in the middle where they sag over years of use… If you were to press fit and glue wing panels (or any long part like a fuselage), on that table, the part you build on that table will “inherit” the same sag!

Ok… So as you can tell, I could easily slip these panels into my mill and press a button (auto feed) and walk away! LOL! But how do you do it when your best friend and possibly only tool is an Xacto blade!?!?!

In the first few photos (taken from my ICON build thread), you will see how to make a simple and really efficient groove/slotting tool for use on foam sheet wings… The diameter of the dowel used depends on your spar (I chose to use a 1/8” dowel for both the spars and leading edges so I chose a 1/8" dowel for my tool... If you wanted a tighter fit, you could use a slightly smaller diameter piece of brass or plastic tubing... (I hate great landings that inadvertently find a rock or brush stump hidden in the grass that dent my LE… If you don’t put in a wood LE in an effort to save weight, you’ll be adding the weight on anyway, later when you affect repairs! Lol! So I just go ahead and put them on now…)

The measurements as to where to slot the wing panels are in the drawing posted… REAL IMPORTANT TO place the spar groove inside the 2-1/8” line! The rear part of the slot is located at 2-1/8” with the kerf (width of the slot), FORWARD of the 2-1/8” line! It will be covered later by the LE strip we’ll be gluing on underneath as shown in the final drawing of this post.

Use the tool SLOWLY and GENTLY! I use 150 grit paper… If you don’t have sticky-back sandpaper, just spray the back of a piece of sandpaper with 3M-77 and wrap it around the 1/8” dowel… make sure the part around the dowel is not creased… wrap it around the dowel dry and roll it first so you get a nice radius.

Use a METAL ruler UNDER the surface of one side of the sanding sled… Don’t let the ruler slip and slowly slide the tool up against the ruler and down onto the foam… as I slide it, I keep the edge traveling forward, up higher than the back… kind of like a surfboard or boat skimming across the water… this keeps the forward traveling edge of the dowel from digging in and ripping the foam (In the final photo you will see one of the LE strips ripped from going to fast and too hard… (This won’t matter as I can use it for the shorter center section…) Once you've traveled as deep as you can with the metal ruler under the sled, remove the ruler and allow the dowel to continue on it's own, firmly guided by the groove you've already created.

After the grooves are sanded, fit the 1/8” dowel spar in place… it should be flush with the top… we don’t want the groove too wide or deep, but thick glue will take care of most of this later.

Once the spar slots are created use your melamine shelf to help create the forward LE slots per the photos and diagram. Look at the last drawing of the completed wings to get an understanding of why we are grooving these pieces where the drawings and photos indicate…

Hold the LE foam strips down hard onto the edge of the melamine shelf so that sanding tool does not slip under the foam… keep the foam pressed up against the sanding sled and keep the sanding sled pressed down onto the melamine shelf so that you create the groove flush with what will become the inside surface of the wing and LE foam strip bonding edges.

Ok… That's it for today...I may hold off on building for a day or two… I have these case molds to pour and a new EyePod model to complete (now makes three!) to join the other two for a photo shoot over at my local hobby shop on a lot of the popular brand planes you guys may already have! This will give you an idea of how adaptable the EyePod Mount is…

Ok… have a great day… Looking forward to hearing what you think so far… enough info? (I’m a believer in thinking that there’s never too much info… but you never know.)

Best,
Richard
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Last edited by jarel design; Nov 16, 2010 at 09:44 AM. Reason: updated drawings in Post #62
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