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Old Sep 09, 2010, 11:14 PM
PaulBrad is offline
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Independence, KY and Brandon, MS
Joined Jun 2000
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Thanks Glenn and Razors edge 29.

Glenn - Beleive it or not the CG is actually coming out slightly nose heavy. I currently have the battery located as far back on the equipment tray as I can. It will be close to spot on but I may to have add a tad of ballast to the tail. That will be a first for me and a scale model.

I am glad to hear that you have built a Starship Enterprise from the plan package that comes from my web site. Depending on the adhesive you used to attach the tissue it may be possible to get rid of those wrinkels. I had a similar problem when I built my examples of the model. I used Elmer's purple School Glue stick to attach the tissue. That worked fine but did leave some wrinkels. I ran the covered model through some steam. That applied enjough moisture to get it to shrink a bit but not enough to cause the ink to run. I ran my covering iron set to low heat over the tissue after shrinking to make sure it was stuck down well. The heat from the covering iron reflows that particular brand of glue stick. The process worked for me and I got rid of the wrinkes. Well most of them anyway.

A bit more progress was made on the model today. While gearing up mentally for doing the cowl bumps I decided to develop a decal of the Hamilton Standard Propeller company to use on the prop. Developing the decal artwork was not much of an issue, but actually getting a decal of the size needed for this model was something else. The prop logo decal is only 1/8" high. When the artwork is shrunk to that size my printer could not reproduce the detail. While you can't read any of the detail on the finished decal, it does add a bit of character to the prop.

When making such decals there is a process I use to help achieve results closer to those achieved with a commercial decal. Decal paper for use with ink jet printers is either white or clear. No big deal you say, just print the artwork on white decal paper. The down side to doing that is being able to trim the image cleanly. Unlike commercial decals, you don't have a white background with a clear edge. You have to trim the decal to the edge of the artwork. For a small decal like the one I wanted for the Stinson prop that is a major challenge. At least for me it is. To get around the problem I use a two layered approach. I first print the basic shape of the decal on white paper. That decal is then cut out of the main sheet. I try to actually cut just a tad under size. I don't seal the ink that defined the outline so it will wash off when the decal is placed in water. This creates a nice white background.

The actual color artwork is then printed on clear decal paper. A color outline, normally black, is used on the decal. After printing and sealing the decal is cut close to the outline color. You don't have to be precise here as the clear edge will basically disappear when the decal is placed on the target object. When ready the decal printed on the clear background material is placed on top of the white background. The color edge hides the edge of the background white decal and gives a nice neat finished look.

For reference I have provided a few photos of the Stinson prop decal results. The first is the artwork that was developed and then shrunk for the actual prop decal. The second photo shows the white background decal. As you can see the white background oval is fairly rough in appearance. Please remember this is a very small oval and hard for these aging hands to cut cleanly. The last photo shows the finished logo after the artwork printed on the clear layer has been applied. When standing back from the model you at least get the impression of Hamilton Standard Propellers logos on the prop blades.

Paul Bradley
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