3mill lam film and proper sparring is lighter than the riteweave and monocoat.
we only use 10 mil under the belly.
A qik paint and lamination aplication build vid is here.
These are laminated builds
build wing with all gear installed
sand wing nicely
spray 3 m 90 over entire wing ,then let dry
now paint without going to heavy and crazy ,I use cheap spray paint.
let paint dry,then do another haze of 3 m 90 over the paint so the lam fill stick reall well.
let 90 dry for 1/2 hour or more.
if you let the 90 dry for a few hrs then you can sand it again as an option to make it even more smooth,but I usually dont,lol
Cut film for top in four pieces then use iron w out a sock, start with temp low at 225 F or so and work your way up.
Use wingbeds to lay wings in to keep them strait and tru ,then over lap the lam film joints 1/4 inch.
After you do a few wings you will be able to do the wing in less pieces.
Its easier to do more at first so you dont distort the wing learning..
The overlaps will disappear and the colors will really bling out even with the haze of 90 over the paint.
You can cover the bare balsa elevons or do the same 90 method with paint ,just no need to do the first layer of 90 on the balsa , just do the last one over the paint so the lam sticks well.
You can also do it over the wing if its completely glassed with riteweave or henrys,a little sanding prior to lam will make it even more smooth.
Hope this helps guys.
Originally Posted by Daemon
You say the old Riteweave method is stiff and strong, but heavy..
then go on to say the new laminating film will make it even heavier.
Or does the weight gain come from carrying more gear?
Just curious why you're switching.
Here are some lay out pix one of my builds.
Mono coat top and lam bottom