View Single Post
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:30 AM
kapteinkuk is offline
Find More Posts by kapteinkuk
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
953 Posts
My assembly of the V5 SMD PCB:



-Solder a bit of solder onto the pads. For the small chip pads, add flux to the pads, add a bit solder to the tip and then run it over the pads. Then add flux to all the pads.





-Add all the components to the pads. Aligment is not critical, but you may do it better than I did





-Move to the kitchen. Here I placed the PCB on a 2mm aluminum plate and put a glass lid over it. Then I turned on the cooking plate to about half power.

After about 10 minutes I turned up the heat and soon the solder melted. 10 minutes may be too long time, but I wanted to avoid grilling the PCB. As soon as all the solder had melted, I moved the aluminum plate off the cooking plate. The IR thermometer was reading 190 degree celcius. Not to hot I think. After cooling carefully inspect the PCB. A few of the legs of the Atmega chip was not soldered. It was fixed with a very small tip and a microscope. Next time I am going to try to add a small weight ontop of the chip to make all the legs come in contact with the solder.



Kitchen SMD reflow soldering (1 min 53 sec)






-Solder on the TH components.

-Attatching the gyros.
Put the gyro onto the PCB and then put hotglue in between the two PCB's









Finished!





Note: If you have used a ATmega88 from the silver gyrd, you have to provide a extenal clock signal until you have programmed the correct clock fuses. I used

a 100kHz signal from a signal generator applied to pin 9. It will light up the led I used an ISP frequency of 6kHz.

The chip on both the gyrds where not locked, so I downloaded the program from it. Later I am going to nerd through the code and see how it works.
kapteinkuk is offline Find More Posts by kapteinkuk
Reply With Quote