exactly Phil. like I told you in my last post of the other thread, you can plank the way you were in the mid section, but when it comes to the tail and nose, strip planking is the way to go. if it were me, I would be tempted to strip plank from F6 forward to F1 and then carve/sand, or mold a nose cone. I don't remember what the tail looks like, so you may have to do the same as the nose, or you might be able to strip plank right to the tip of the tail. I would say 3/32 is your best option for strip planking, although I've used up to 1/8th and it's worked quite nicely. it just takes more effort to plank with thicker balsa. as suggested, you can use ammonia or water, but I use water in a spray bottle. personally, I hate the smell of ammonia and don't use it because of that. LOL. each has their own methods, which is why a forum is so great...........lot's to learn from those willing to provide the info.
another method I have tried and works well, is elastic bands as clamps. just make sure they are tight enough, without being overly tight. start with your side pieces, cut a bit wider as suggested and glue to the formers. then put elastics on them at the formers and allow to dry. if the elastics dent the wood, you can simply spray the wood with water and the dents will pop back out, or use a cloth buffer between the elastic and the wood............that's the beauty of using balsa.
after that you can glue top and bottom pieces on and repeat the clamping, then all four, 45 degree angles and repeat the clamping. then it's just a matter of cutting fill-in strips for the gaps.
what I have done in the past, is to lay the balsa on the table and sprayed the outer sides with water and allow it to soak in for a bit. this keeps the glue side dry and gives the balsa some flexibility before you plank the plane. just a spray or two along the length from a spray bottle is enough. wait a few minutes and plank away. lol. you can use CA if the curves aren't too severe, but if they are, then white glue is a good option. it's lighter than epoxy and strong enough for the job. there's some good white glues available these days, that dry very quickly, in the matter of an hour or so.