Thread: Build Log Tragi 801 Cluster-F3X.com
View Single Post
Old Feb 15, 2010, 08:17 PM
belouder is offline
Find More Posts by belouder
Registered User
belouder's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Aug 2005
372 Posts
I've taken a few pics of parts of my 801 and some of the build I'm doing. Even though this is only my second moldie build, I feel it is going rather well due to much work on the part of Tragi and very clear (albeit brief) instructions. No major screwups yet but I still have to glue the servo tray in so there is plenty of time!!

I do have to say that in reading many of the build threads on RC Groups and tips and tricks submitted by various folks including professionals such as Dave Hauch with RC Builds sure does help-I find it amazing how generous folks are with their knowledge. I feel like I have a pretty good handle on what to do. That is until I drop a hammer on a wing or glue the servo tray in backwards.......

You can see in the fuse pic the line between glass in front and carbon starting at the wing leading edge. You can also see the balast tube and how it loads-I've since pulled wires and there is plenty of room to get things in there.

Included wiring harness is well made and wires are soldered oriented towards the direction they will go-forward for the fuse, split left and right for the wing.

Things such as servo bays and fuse DB-9 connector holes need to be cut out but Tragi has provided scribed lines to indicate where to cut. I sure was nervous cutting into the first wing panel!!

Tow hook is installed and adjusted to their recomended setting. I'll file a notch to hold the ring at some point. Joiners fit very well, snug but not super tight.

In the flap servo pic, you can see the foam sub rib installed on each side of every servo bay. Pre-cut holes in the ribs for servo wires. Nice!!

Rudder ball joint is mounted-I think there might be some movement restriction on one side-will see when I set up travels. Looks to be an easy fix by knocking off some of the ball joint casting.

The instructions have a template for the cutout for flap pushrods-after following the template I didn't need to do anything else to get full movement. On my first (and only other) moldie build (a Shadow) I spent quite a bit of time working on these openings to get them just right without being too large-having the template saved a ton of time.

Control horns are threaded metal cut to the right length (all four the same) and the holes are just the right size with no threads. Include clevises fit very snug on these horns-no slop that I can tell. Instructions say to just "glue them in" so glue them in I did. Had to pump it in and out a few times to get the air bubbles to release-it was obvious when there was still air in there-they would just pop out!!

Anyway-as I mentioned above-still have to glue in the servo tray, install bat, Rx and remotes, and then balance. All in all I think it's been pretty easy but I set out to build it "as per instructions" so I didn't spend any time futzing with weight or trying to re-engineer things. Being a professional diaper changer-I just don't have the bandwidth!!

BK
belouder is offline Find More Posts by belouder
Last edited by belouder; Feb 15, 2010 at 08:19 PM. Reason: added text
Reply With Quote