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Feb 05, 2010
, 09:57 PM
United States, AZ, Prescott
Joined Aug 2006
OK. The skeg is done! Here's the pics of the build process. The finished skeg and tape weighed in at 0.8 ounces. To compensate, I removed 0.7 ounces of lead from the nose. That should be close enough to keep the CG about where it is or with only a click or two of trim. Many thanks to the guys in the CASL club and on RC Groups who helped with the ideas on how to build the skeg. And many thanks goes out to Phil, who supplied the G10!
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The G10 (fiberglass) plate with the basic pattern traced on it.
I prefer to make a balsa template first.
Test fit the template and sand as needed for best fit.
Trace out the template on the G10 and cut to shape. Use a MASK when cutting the G10!!!
I used 30 minute epoxy and a lot of micro balloons to create a fillet around the skeg and base.
I then applied several more layers of fiberglass and epoxy around the skeg and nose.
After the epoxy has cured, I sanded everything and then added a layer of 30 minute epoxy and micro balloons to smooth out some of the rough spots.
To help keep the orientation, I added an alignment mark on the base of the skeg. It's the small black line on the fiberglass base.
The epoxy has dried and everything has been wet sanded. You can also see the cutout pattern drawn on the fiberglass.
After cutting out the basic shape.
The final shape has been cut out and a final test fit is done before painting.
Some saran wrap around an epoxy bottle makes a great skeg stand for painting.
A heavy coat of Krylon Fusion should do it. I can always touch it up as it gets dirty.
Front view of skeg.
A few wraps of tape to hold the skeg on. I may add some more just to be sure the skeg doesn't rotate on landing.