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Old Jan 14, 2010, 04:49 AM
David Littlewood
David Littlewood
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Re: Heating a workshop/garage

In article <7r82crF173U1@mid.individual.net>, Donwill
<Donwill.seesig@invalid.invalid> writes

>Peter Parry wrote:

>> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 10:48:38 +0000, Donwill
>> <Donwill.seesig@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>

>>> To minimise the risk of condensation on machines the temperature
>>>should be kept reasonably constant but that's expensive if you heat
>>>to a comfortable working temperature.
>>>

>>
>> If you are contemplating electric heating then start by installing one
>> or more dehumidifiers. Firstly they (obviously) dry the air but
>> secondly they recover the latent heat of evaporation so are slightly
>> more efficient than a 100% efficient radiant heater (you get more heat
>> out than electric energy equivalent put in).
>>
>> Another alternative which is much cheaper to run than resistive
>> heating is an inverter split unit air conditioner. This is an air
>> source heat pump with air drying. DIY fit versions are available.
>> Look for the coefficient of performance figure. In heat pump mode
>> these types of systems typically have a coefficient of performance
>> (CoP) of about 3. This means that a 3 KW air conditioner uses about 1
>> KW of power. Conversely a heat pump provides about 3 KW of heat while
>> using about 1 KW of power.
>>
>>
>>

>That sounds like the way to go, having done a quick search LG and
>Toshiba seem to be eminent in the field, do you have any experience
>with them that you can share? To keep the humidity down AND heat the
>wksp cheaply seems to be great. :-)
>Generally speaking, the air passing through the unit needs to be cooled
>to remove moisture, how does the unit apply heat to warm it up to
>working temp, is this where the so called "split" system comes in? To
>cool and then heat the air in principle seems wasteful ?
>Any info gratefully received.
>Don


Don,

Warming the air automatically reduces its relative humidity, so it does
not need to be cooled first.

David
--
David Littlewood