Jan 13, 2010, 01:55 PM
Re: Heating a workshop/garage
In article <email@example.com>, Richard Edwards
>On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 11:36:17 +0000, David Littlewood
>>I decided the first need was to insulate. I fitted fibreglass insulation
>>and plasterboard to the roof. An estimate of heat loss (Googling "heat
>>loss calculator" will show up dozens of pro-formas, though not many
>>cover steel doors) showed that most was lost through the steel
>>un-and-over door, but the manufacturer did not supply insulation panels
>>for it (sidebar - should it not be a requirement to make these
>>available? - the heat lost through these things can be enormous). I am
>>still working on this, something cobbled up from polystyrene or
>>polyurethane sheets seems probable.
>I had exactly the same problem. I cosidered replacing the door with a
>stud wall but decided that access in the future was important if I
>ever get a "proper mill". In the end I got a builder friend to get me
>two sheets of 8 x 4 Celotex 70mm thick. Cut these to suit the width of
>the door frame and cut wedges of the same to fill in the edges out to
>the wall. I glued a length of 75 x 19 "treated" board to the floor
>first to stop any water coming through under the door getting into the
>shop. Taped all of the edges of the Celotex with Aluminised tape and
>put a length of EPDM seal between the lower panel and the floor board.
That sounds like a great idea; unfortunately the garage door is required
to open fairly frequently for access for window cleaners etc. (my wife
insists...). When I built the garage it took up the whole space at the
side of the house and it's now the only access to the back.
>Reading the above it sounds like a cobble but it actually looks good
>and seems to be working. Cost £46 for the two panels, tape in stock,
>EPDM seal from Screwfix.
>Advantages Easily removable, low cost, quick to do
>Disadvantages Cannot hang anything on the new "wall".
>I also had a problem with the rooflight in the garage. Even though
>double glazed I could feel the cold "falling down". Fitted a piece of
>1000 x 700 5mm polycarbonate sheet into the cavity and supported it
>with a batten "picture frame". The polycarb has been kicking arround
>for years so zero cost. Left the protective sheet on it so if needed
>for a job is recoverable.
>That has definitely made a difference.
>Yet to insulate the roof once I get rid of a load of stuff hung from
Don't forget to put all the lights you might want up first - it's much
>Then I need to bite the bullet and put some "controlled" heating and
>maybe de-humidification in.
>Also need to check neighbors garden as I feel that their soil line is
>higher than my garage floor and that is why that end of the garage
>seems a bit damp!
You may need to dig it away and paint on a bitumen damp proof coat down
to below the existing DPC. Alternatively, you could use a product called
"Bituthene" - a heavy gauge polythene sheet coated with bitumen, which
also protects the damp-proof bitumen and also keeps it away from your