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Old Oct 07, 2003, 09:19 PM
FrankW is offline
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Danger! Danger!
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Portland Intl, Oregon, United States
Joined Dec 2002
1,951 Posts
I should be laying down the paint on Thursday. I think I've decided on my paint scheme, should look good.

The thickness of the plastic at the canopy is about .020; I can see how you used .030 due to the stretching of the plastic. So, I bet if you used .020 plastic, then it would result in being .010 to .015 inch thickness at the canopy. That would be way too thin to hold up well.

I prefer the score and fold method myself, but it doesn't work well with PETG. I've used the method successfully with some car bodies I've molded, but I've also had many rips and tears too.

I use .060 lexan when making face shields for my helmet I wear when streetluging. It's a big pain to work with. I usually let it pre-dry for 2 hours, just to make sure I get no air bubbles in it. Poor visability on a streetluge is just not an option. But I need to use lexan because it's very impact resistant and shatter proof (it's what bullet-proof glass is made out off).

The molding is excelent. Did you use a wooden prototype mold and make a male plug, then use that to make a resin mold? When I was working on car bodies, I was looking into "tooling-resin" (the stuff that's used to make molds for molding tools).

I plan on resurrecting my small vacuum former sometime and making myself a little scale fuselage for my Voyager as a winter project.

-Frank
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