Thread: Build Log F-9F "Panther" Parkjet
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 08:55 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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i say build as many work benches as can fit in your house... that way, you can do multiple simultaneous builds! of course, nothing ever gets finished (i'm a prime example of that), but at least you can move ahead on multiple fronts.

so, before more skinning is pursued, next step is to work on the tail. the reason for this is that i try to keep all the servos physically close together so that a single hatch can access them. so before proceeding with covering the next bay which would obscure the receiver, i worked on the tail.

this method is GGRN's method. great method. i try and use it whenever i can. rock solid. sure, it's a little bit more involved than a simple single torque tube, but i've found it to be much more reliable.

step-by-step play call:
-first get the 2 fin pieces and decide which sides will be the inner side. i usually choose the least amount of ink and dimples to be on the outside. i removed the film from the fins
-next, install the 1/4" LE balsa strip to add strength. given that the fin is actually made up of 2 FFF and also supported by 2x 3mm skins, it's debatable whether the balsa is really needed or not. i added just to be safe. if you're looking to save some weight, safe it here.
-next pic just shows the parts of the elevator mechanism. i think on the plans, i call them the stabiltor mechanism. i still don't know the terminology; but you get what i mean.
-ok, next place one side of the fin such that the inner portion is facing up. then put one of the stabilator/elevator box sides into the opening. push it all the way through so that it is flush with the bottom (outer side) of the fin. glue it in place.
-cut out a shallow channel to recieve the elevator control wire.
-next, install the elevator/stabilator mechanism spacer. also, cut a slot in that to allow the sheath for the elevator control wire to pass.
-then, install the elevator control wire sheath. i use antenna tubing for the sheath (at the LHS) and 0.055" piano wire. there is a little bit of play in there which is where the little bit of slop in the arrangement comes from. J gave me some recent good advice to check out the LHS train section for 'plastistruts' to find one with closer tolerances to the 0.055" wire. i haven't had a chance to do that yet, but its on my to-do list. thanks J... always a wealth of info. (oh i forgot to mention, leave the sheath long... we can cut it down to the right length later when there is a better idea of where the servo actually sits).
-once the sheath is in place, then the other side of the fin can be glued in place. for this step, i used 3M Super77.

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