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        Corrugated plastic model

#1 Bocan May 12, 2004 01:48 AM

Corrugated plastic model
Have anyone tried to construct a model from corrugated plastic sheets? They are low cost and easily glued together to create hollow sections with cross walls. I plan to make one but wonder if anyone have already done it.

#2 crashsiegel May 12, 2004 02:19 AM

Coroplast is a common material.
JKA uses a lot for tails and doublers (Big-T for example).
Search for SPAD - gas combat aircraft - they are a scream to watch when they get into a real fur ball out there!

I think maybe AeroCore makes planes out of it but they are a bit heavy for electric use.

#3 schoey May 12, 2004 02:57 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Heres mine, not quite a beginner model its a mugi ( www.mugi.co.uk ) from memory.

While coroplast/corflute/correx is very strong, it is heavy in comparison to foam. Correx seems to have been forgotten now with fanfold and depron being the new 'cheap' airframe material.


#4 rutat May 12, 2004 10:19 AM

www.spadtothebone.com Coro is not all that heavy for large wings compared to foam.

#5 Quicker May 12, 2004 11:21 AM

http://spadworld.net/index.php has a good electric section, and a good foamie section. Most of the foamies have been glow powered, but the electric section has come up with some cool stuff.

#6 Mark Wood May 12, 2004 08:43 PM

Matter of fact, we have a forum specifically for that kind of construction!
Off to the S.P.A.D. forum. :)


#7 himansu.tutu Jan 13, 2013 02:02 AM

i am tring my level best to make a coro plastic model but i am unable to make a wing of perfect dimension. several time while turing the upper part of the coro plastic during making wing the upper surface of wing gets folded in many places. how to avoid this prob and make a perfect one?

#8 aspeed Jan 13, 2013 09:39 AM

Did you score the leading edge where the fold should be? A screen installation roller or phillips screwdriver is commonly used. and folded over the table edge or o fixture of some sort.

#9 JohnsPop Jan 14, 2013 10:12 PM

And what thickness of coro are you using? If 2mm, I score it with a screwdriver and fold it over a table edge. If it's 4mm, I route out a 3/8" groove with my Dremel tool with router attachment leaving just the outer skin. That lets it fold over perfectly straight and takes a LOT of tension off the glue joints.

#10 Rusty Nail Jan 17, 2013 01:59 AM

Traditionally the flutes run from leading to trailing edge. If you are trying to make a wing with span-wise flutes you need ribs or a wide foam support at the foils thickest part.

#11 paintmann111 Jan 26, 2013 11:38 AM


#12 Mig Man Jan 26, 2013 12:18 PM

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This is incorrect ^ (Sorry but we have to set the record straight for the new guy working with coro here.) Having built with flutes running exclusively chordwise (front to back) I have never had a folding problem in turns. In fact I do extremely high G loops with a narrow chord, long span combat plane built from all coro in my avatar pic you see here. (I do have to pay attention to using a good joiner to bring both halves together though.)

In fact running the flutes spanwise will give creasing problems along the flutes leaving a less then desired airfoil without additional support like Rusty Nail said above.

Notice the pipe direction (flutes) in the pic below. Nothing but yard stick material for a wing spar.

#13 Rusty Nail Jan 26, 2013 05:53 PM

Paintmann, I have done spanwise wing construction for reasons of structure but more for an accurate foil.
It makes a very strong wing in span and in torsion, as with a tapered wing the flutes run at opposing angles top and bottom.
Ribs take more trouble and the SPAD ethos is quick and dirty, and they fly well with strange foils.

I think it is worth experimenting with a correctly chosen compressible wide foam 'spar web' ar la 'Armin' wing. I have done this a long time ago and still got a small kink in the 3.3mm 1 metre wing upper skin. I think heating the sheet before bending and closing, maybe with a powerful hairdryer, will help on the small cord wings with a more pronounced curve. Some form of oven heat treating and molding over a form, like some foam wings, would be ultimate, but not very SPAD like! You could try using the bed of a foam cut wing as a mold...
Let us hear from other spanwise builders.

#14 MrClean Jan 26, 2013 07:11 PM

My first 25 size combat ships were the SPAD Defenders with spanwise flutes of 4 mil. Worked great.
Most of my current ships use chordwise all 2 mil flutes or a mixture of spanwise 4 mil with 2 mil upper surface chordwise.
al la Armin, heck, I'd say we' designed it first but tha'ts too simplistic an answer as I'm sure someone was doing it before either of our groups were. We once ran into a guy in florida that was building coroplast airplanes that really close resembled SPADs but he knew nothing of us. Similar minds think alike. The important thing though is to remmeber Hobbico owns the rights to any kind of model airplane part construction with coroplast. They bought it from Aircore who developed it in the 70's after Coroplast came out. So really, any innovations probably should be credited to them. The SPAD guys just wanted to build an in-expensive combat model and there were all these "free" campaign signs at the side of the road.

By the way, the genisis of this zombie thread was in May of 2004 and was resurrected 8 days ago, 9 years later. SPADS are gosh, circa 97 or 98. I'd have to dig up the year, but either 14 or 15 years old now, maybe 16. I started flying them a year after they got on the internet on Wichitas combat forum.

#15 Spaderman Jan 27, 2013 02:01 AM

Agree with you, for my models, I use 2 methods and I think 2 are substantially stronger.
With some details, for flutes in the spanwise, I use 4mm and flutes in the direction of the cord, I use 3mm
But I also think that the second method is more aerodynamic, simply just a little more work ....
After many models and many crashes, :mad: I found that the repairs on the wings with flutes in the direction of the cord is more difficult, because in shock at the leading edge of the wing, the coro will cleave quite easily.

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