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#1 carrera mike Feb 22, 2013 06:56 PM

what o you call this? 2 pushrod to 1
 
1 Attachment(s)
Help, what do you call this linkage connector that links 2 elevator pushrod to 1 pushrod and onto the servo? I want to order it but dont know the name
:confused:
Thanks!

#2 Taurus Flyer Feb 22, 2013 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carrera mike (Post 24220108)
Help, what do you call this linkage connector that links 2 elevator pushrod to 1 pushrod and onto the servo? I want to order it but dont know the name
:confused:
Thanks!

Mike, here is an aviation maintenance manager, asking the same, maybe he can give you the answer in the near future.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post24219975

Or, RCUniverse, ask there?

Taurus Flyer

#3 whiskykid Feb 22, 2013 07:58 PM

nothing works as good as wiring & soldering the two pushrods together!

#4 earlwb Feb 22, 2013 09:29 PM

I remember people just making them before. One way is to take a piece of aluminum and drill three holes in it for the pushrods. You can then either drill and tap holes for set screws, or even tap the holes and screw the pushrods into it, or both even.

The simplest method is to use a couple of wheel collars and one long pushrod and one slightly shorter pushrod and tighten up the set screw as needed. That locks them both together. Handy for routing pushrods through tubing to the back of the plane.

I have typically just used dental floss and wrapped it around the two pushrods (one longer and one slightly shorter) to join them together. I then super glue the floss and the two parts are bonded to each other really well then. In the past I used epoxy resin to do the same thing. But nowadays super glue works great on the dental floss.

Years ago the Y pushrod was commonly used. One long pushrod was coupled with a second one and a Y was formed. You would thread two lengths of string down into the fuselage from the elevators on both sides. Then tie the string to the Y ends and pull it through to the back of the plane as needed. You could bend the pushrod wires as needed for smooth operation. Coupling the second pushrod on was done using copper wire and solder. But dental floss and epoxy resin or nowadays using super glue does the trick too.

#5 carrera mike Feb 22, 2013 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taurus Flyer (Post 24220513)
Mike, here is an aviation maintenance manager, asking the same, maybe he can give you the answer in the near future.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post24219975

Or, RCUniverse, ask there?

Taurus Flyer

Thanks TF. Thats me asking in that different board :)
I've seen them but dont know what they're called(proper nomenclature) to order or search for the piece.
thanks for the tip to ask at RCUniverse. I just posted it there too.

#6 carrera mike Feb 22, 2013 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlwb (Post 24221518)
I remember people just making them before. One way is to take a piece of aluminum and drill three holes in it for the pushrods. You can then either drill and tap holes for set screws, or even tap the holes and screw the pushrods into it, or both even.

The simplest method is ......

Thanks for this very good tip. Appreciate your time.
I was searching Towerhobbies for the piece with no luck. I swear its made by Dubro or Sullivan. Youre right its just an aliminum block with three set -allenscrews locking the pushrod wires in place.

#7 Lifer Feb 23, 2013 06:25 AM

I have seen such a device in a World Models AT-6 arf. I replaced it with copper wire wrap and silver solder as whiskykid suggested.

#8 kenh3497 Feb 23, 2013 07:56 AM

When I put the three rods together and solder them I try to use rods with threads on them. I put the threaded ends together, wrap with copper wire and solder. The threads lock the rods to each other and the chance of them slipping is next to zero.

Ken

#9 rjstrickjr Feb 23, 2013 09:33 AM

A couple of wheel collars do the trick and you can adjust them if you need to.

The proper name I think is a V-Tail mixer and they have them all over the place but are rarly used anymore. I think I even have one NIP and never used it.

#10 carrera mike Feb 23, 2013 10:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Found it at the local hobby shop I guess it's called TRIPLE ROD CONNECTOR!!
Thanks to all who try to help. Appreciate it

#11 Zor Feb 25, 2013 02:03 PM

Suggestion
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by carrera mike (Post 24225825)

Found it at the local hobby shop I guess it's called TRIPLE ROD CONNECTOR!!
Thanks to all who try to help. Appreciate it

Suggest you make your setup and tighten the three set scews.
Then take it apart and file a flat where the set screws made their mark.

Re-install and tighten the scews again on the flats.
If a screw becomes loose the rods will not get out of range.

Zor

#12 carrera mike Mar 03, 2013 08:58 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Thanks for all the help gents.
Here's what i did. BTW, the 1st reason I did this was i didnt like the factory /oem elevator configuration of my Zero aircraft. It was causing uneven elevator throws.

#13 grosbeak Mar 04, 2013 05:31 AM

The Sullivan product is the 2-56 Ball Type Elevator Splitter.

#14 carrera mike Mar 04, 2013 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grosbeak (Post 24316610)
The Sullivan product is the 2-56 Ball Type Elevator Splitter.

Thats even a nicer setup. Looks like it absorbs initial shocks with its springs. :thumbup:

#15 grosbeak Mar 04, 2013 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carrera mike (Post 24317071)
Thats even a nicer setup. Looks like it absorbs initial shocks with its springs. :thumbup:

So it would appear - but the spring is actually there to keep tension on the socket cover (the white part). I have the same type of connector on my DLE 20's throttle:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6...7c5d6430_z.jpg

Pulling the socket cover back against the tension of the spring allows you to remove the socket from the ball.


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