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        Question Sickle Radio Cutout

#1 justin80 Jan 20, 2013 11:40 PM

Sickle Radio Cutout
 
What are you guys using to cover the radio cutout on the sickle fuselage? Do you build some kind of hatch? Its not in the plans. Thanks in advance.

#2 justin80 Jan 21, 2013 07:39 PM

Also, would epoxying the wing to the fuse and not using screws be advisable?

#3 Mig Man Jan 21, 2013 10:23 PM

Epoxy will not stick to coro. Scratch that one. Ca glue, E-6000 craft glue (like silicone cement in consistency) and hot melt glue will all stick to coro.

Not sure about the hatch thing. Someone familiar with the sickle will have to help you there.

#4 TheRealFrosty Jan 23, 2013 02:10 PM

I think the radio cut out faces down to the wing. Screwing the wing on covers the cutout.

found a link a spadworld that says it can be done on top or bottom. top requires you to make some sort of cover.

http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic...t=sickle+radio

#5 justin80 Jan 26, 2013 12:58 AM

Thanks for the replies. I am building a hatch.

#6 JohnsPop Jan 27, 2013 09:24 PM

Yep, on the plans it shows a 4" Radio Access Cutout right there on the fuse section.

#7 webdragon Mar 05, 2013 09:32 PM

Actually i've been using epoxy to glue up SPAD wings for a few years now,
and only had one come apart but only because it crashed.
just make sure to rough sand the area you want the epoxy to hold and make sure to flash it with a torch just like you would with CA.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Mig Man (Post 23888484)
Epoxy will not stick to coro. Scratch that one. Ca glue, E-6000 craft glue (like silicone cement in consistency) and hot melt glue will all stick to coro.

Not sure about the hatch thing. Someone familiar with the sickle will have to help you there.


#8 paintmann111 Mar 09, 2013 11:40 AM

+1 webdragon. I use epoxy on all my builds. I sand every bonding surface and on important areas I go over it with a flame then use a neddle to make tiny pin holes on both surfaces. Once the epoxy cures, it acts like nails. Crashed a couple and never had any of the surfaces break free, unless it was part of the impact area.


Edit: CA may work better, but I have access to epoxy has wholesale prices, thats why I choose to use it. $2 a tube vs $5-$7 a bottle adds up.

#9 webdragon Mar 09, 2013 12:56 PM

I haven't tried pinholes yet, but i plan to on my next build. In one of my last trades i ended up with a woodpecker and i'm going to try that on the coro ans see how that does.

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintmann111 (Post 24371302)
+1 webdragon. I use epoxy on all my builds. I sand every bonding surface and on important areas I go over it with a flame then use a neddle to make tiny pin holes on both surfaces. Once the epoxy cures, it acts like nails. Crashed a couple and never had any of the surfaces break free, unless it was part of the impact area.


Edit: CA may work better, but I have access to epoxy has wholesale prices, thats why I choose to use it. $2 a tube vs $5-$7 a bottle adds up.


#10 aspeed Mar 09, 2013 02:42 PM

Some guys are using the Woodpecker and polyurethane glue that swells up to fill the holes. I think it may be marginally lighter than epoxy, but heavier than CA. While cutting the hatch, maybe cutting at an angle may get the hatch to tuck in?


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