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        Build Log Guillows 18" span Sopwith Camel

#1 glewis Jan 12, 2013 04:09 PM

Guillows 18" span Sopwith Camel
3 Attachment(s)
This is my build of one of the long discontinued Guillows WW series of 18" span WWI models. The laser cut short kit is from Aero-werks, http://dpcmodels.homestead.com/SRKS.htm
I highly recommend Dave's kits. You get the laser cut parts and a CD that contains all kinds of useful info including the plans and decals files.

I actually started this one a while ago but stalled due to repairs/upgrades to models flown (and crashed :o ) regularly, and a build of a micro Ugly Stick.

The plan was to utilize a removable equipment tray that could be transferred from model to model. This proved to be problematic and the idea was abandoned. The tray still slides out for equipment access and it might be incorporated into another model later. For now it is dedicated to the Camel due to the cowl shape.


#2 glewis Jan 12, 2013 04:34 PM

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The control linkages will be connected by small magnets. This allows them to disconnect when the tray is removed. I 'borrowed' this idea from Paul Bradley's Comet Stinson build. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=comet+stinson

It is now being used in the whim series of Parkscale Models kits too. http://www.parkscalemodels.com/shop/....aspx?catid=23

My model will be powered by the parkzone um P-51 8.5mm motor/gearbox and powered by a single 160mAh cell.

#3 glewis Jan 12, 2013 05:01 PM

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My plan for covering/decorating is printed tissue from a RoF skin. Been thoroughly aggravated and humbled trying to figure out how to re size the graphics in Paint Shop Pro. That is the most confusing, counterintuitive piece of,,,, piece of,,, software I have ever encountered. I burned through half a Saturday and have nothing to show for it. I would be better off starting over and just using MS Paint.
Might just toss in the towel on the graphics and go with painted tissue.


#4 Steve85 Jan 12, 2013 05:20 PM


Wow, lots of cool stuff here! A discontinued Guillows, sliding equipment tray, magnetic control linkages and printed tissue...:cool:.

I'm subscribed!


#5 glewis Jan 12, 2013 05:49 PM

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Hi Steve.
Well, maybe printed tissue....
I have to work night shift next week so I might be able to work on the graphics there, after the day shift goes home. :)

Here's a pic of the linkages on the servo tray. The magnet couplings are a short length of 1/8" dowel with a 0.020 through hole, then a 1/16" hole drilled 1/16 deep. The dowel was lined up on the wire and the magnet put in place then everything fixed with thin CA.
The AR6400 is glued to the balsa with canopy glue after a couple of pockets were cut in the balsa for the taller components to fit down into.

The pushrod guides are balsa. A rectangular hole was cut in the tray and the guides slid in with 1/16" protruding out the other side. 1/16 square strips are glued on to support the guides and everything glued up with yellow glue. The holes in the guides were drilled then hardened with thin CA.

Linkage retainers are 0.015 wire and are not in the proper position yet. They go on top of the pushrod wire and are pulled into position with tweezers. This locks everything in securely.


#6 Shnokey Jan 12, 2013 08:20 PM


Originally Posted by glewis (Post 23794790)
Hi Steve.
Well, maybe printed tissue....

PM Sent.... We will set you up.. - cool build!! -

#7 glewis Jan 12, 2013 08:35 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Thanks Man. PM replied.

Nose insert planked to provide a grip area when pulling the tray out.
The wing saddle area needed some work. The curvature didn't match the ribs. I wanted to reduce the bottom wing incidence anyway so slivers of wood were cut and glued in to provide a proper mounting for the wing. Also not shown in the pic is the pushrod exit plates at the rear. They were cut from 1/32 sheet and fit between the stringers.


#8 glewis Jan 12, 2013 08:48 PM

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Here are pics of the pushrod connections and exit plates.
The wing saddle has been shimmed to lower the incidence to about 2 degrees.
Next up, the wings.


#9 PiperCub49 Jan 12, 2013 08:55 PM


What are you using to hold your pushrod keepers in place? It looks like 1/2A fuel tubing. Does it matter if you use the 90* bend as the keeper? From what I can see, you're using a separate piece of wire for the 90* bend. I ask because I'm having some difficulty with my AR6400 linkages and it looks like you really have it figured out.


#10 glewis Jan 12, 2013 09:05 PM

It's heat shrink tubing. A 90 degree bend won't stay in. A 'Z' bend works best, but once the pushrods are on they are hard to remove without a lot of trouble. The keeper is a separate piece of 0.015 wire.
The keeper wire isn't glued into the heat shrink to give it the flexibility needed to 'lock and unlock' them.


#11 danrc Jan 13, 2013 06:35 AM

Looking great Glenn. I have the N28 sitting by that I was trying to figure when to jump on. May have to try the removeable tray idea as well! Love watching you work!

#12 mtflyr Jan 13, 2013 08:07 AM

Looks great Glenn.


#13 glewis Jan 13, 2013 01:54 PM

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Hi Pete and Dan, thanks for the comments.

Here's a pic of the top wing. Standard stuff here. I added !/8" dihedral to each panel and increased the bottom wing dihedral the same amount.
Also added some 1/16 sq strips to form a pocket for the struts and give something for the tissue to adhere to.
Still need to add the tip support strips and the top wing will be ready for sanding.


#14 glewis Jan 13, 2013 04:03 PM

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Top wing tip supports done. This assembly is now ready for sanding.
On to the bottom wing.

#15 meltor Jan 13, 2013 04:43 PM

neat build Glenn.:popcorn:

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