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#1 Sandav Nov 13, 2012 08:38 AM

Custom frame designed for NanoWii
 
9 Attachment(s)
This will not be my first frame that I build but this is the first build where I remembered to take pictures of all the steps :cool:.

My goal is to build a frame especially for the NanoWii.
http://flyduino.net/bilder/produkte/...ultiWii-FC.jpg

First thing to do.... spent a fair amount of money at different stores all over the globe.
The NanoWii and Carbon reinforced 9" props at Flyduino.net, Germany.
Alu square rod (10x10mm) at an ebay store also located in Germany.
In the Netherlands I bought 2 sheets of epoxy, 1 sheet of 1,5mm thick and 1 sheet of 0,3mm.
Also in the Netherlands I bought a double sided epoxy print for the power harness.
The rest of the parts are ordered at Hobbyking but it may take awhile for them to arrive. More on that when I get the parts.

With powerdraw I sketched the drawings for the frame plates.
Attachment 5301018

To make the frame look like the NanoWii, I used the same curve for the outline.
The powerdraw sketch was printed on an adhesive paper wich I sticked on the 1.5mm epoxy plate.
Attachment 5301012

After that I started cutting............Some more cutting......................Some sanding.....
Attachment 5301013 Attachment 5301014 Attachment 5301015

Some more sanding, cleaning and drilling and the first plate is finished
Attachment 5301017

Took me about 2 1/2 hours from slapping on the sticker till the final product.

That's it for now, tomorrow i'll post the bottom plate and the frame arms.

#2 Sandav Nov 14, 2012 06:41 AM

7 Attachment(s)
So, just finished another part of the nano-frame, the bottom part. It's not only a frame part but also the power distribution board. The bottom part is cut out of a double sided epoxy print.

First, stick on the drawing and start cutting.
I just used a little hacksaw to saw the larger parts.
Attachment 5302976Attachment 5302977

After that it's a matter of power sanding... and filing......... and drilling...........
Attachment 5302978Attachment 5302979Attachment 5302982

Untill you end up with this
Attachment 5302983

#3 Sandav Nov 14, 2012 09:33 AM

8 Attachment(s)
Because the bottom frame plate is used as a power distribution board, I need some kind of insulation between the board and the frame or else it will light up as a christmass tree (at least for a second or two :eek:) when I connect the battery.
On earlier frames, I covered one side of the double sided epoxy print with another layer of epoxy but that added too much weight to the frame. For this frame, I wanted something more subtle. So now I just cover the area where the frame tube touches the bottom plate.

First off, cut some strips of the 0,3mm epoxy.
Attachment 5303161

And glue them to the frame plate.
Attachment 5303162

After cleaning up and sanding, this is the result.
Attachment 5303159Attachment 5303157

I think next time I use some double sided tape to hold the isolation in place. saves a lot of time and some cleaning up.

Next are the arms, probably the easiest parts because I made up a drilling jig for the holes on both sides.
The only thing to do is determine how long they have to be.
Attachment 5303160
Left side is the frame side, right side is the motor side.

To determine how lang the arms had to be, I laid down four arms on the top frame and placed two props on top of the arms.
I slided them just far enough outwards until there was about 2cm between the tips of the props.
Attachment 5303163Attachment 5303164Attachment 5303158

In my next post I'll put it all together

#4 Mortimer Nov 14, 2012 11:06 AM

Nice work.
Giving your blood to achieve your goal is a sign of courage. ;)

What is motor to motor distance ?

#5 Sandav Nov 14, 2012 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mortimer (Post 23266710)
Nice work.
Giving your blood to achieve your goal is a sign of courage. ;)

What is motor to motor distance ?

Ha ha, it sure didn't feel like that and the words at that moment weren't that courageous too :censored:

motor2motor is 39cm, could be less but I kept 2-2,5cm between the 9" prop tips.

Good news, three hong-kong packages are waiting for me at the post office. Gonna pick 'em up tomorrow after work. I will post pictures if I can find the time.

#6 sirbow2 Nov 14, 2012 01:11 PM

sandwich, or just plate on the top?

#7 Sandav Nov 14, 2012 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirbow2 (Post 23267699)
sandwich, or just plate on the top?

It's a sandwich with the power board at the bottom.
More pictures tomorrow so stay tuned :popcorn:

#8 malcr001 Nov 14, 2012 09:41 PM

On another note, you can bend your thumb back freakishly far!

#9 Sandav Nov 15, 2012 01:17 AM

12 Attachment(s)
Here's another update. Time to paint and put it all together.
It's gonna be all matt black. That's not only the same color as the NanoWii pcb but it also helps flying in direct sunlight, no flashing sunlight bouncing of the frame.

First I need to mask the parts of the power board where eventually, the esc will be connected.
Attachment 5304604Attachment 5304603

After that it's straight forward.....
Attachment 5304595Attachment 5304601

Soldering on the LiPo connector
Attachment 5304596

and putting it all together..
Attachment 5304605Attachment 5304597Attachment 5304598

That's it for now. I'm out of material :mad:, but there are three packages from Hobbyking waiting for me at the post office :D.
Motors, esc's, shrink wrap, usb programmer for my SiLab based esc's (for this build I use F-20A's).
The only things that are in the mail are headers for the NanoWii and flatcables for connecting the rx to the NanoWii.

#10 Great_Dane Nov 15, 2012 02:58 AM

Very nice, so far. Keep up the good work and thanks for posting.

It's quite inspirational for a rookie like myself.

#11 oxygen Nov 15, 2012 03:12 AM

man!, you are a true artist :)
Keep the posts coming, it reads like a thriller (with blood)

#12 Sandav Nov 16, 2012 02:17 AM

11 Attachment(s)
I picked up my packages yesterday and I love packages that say, Origin Hong Kong :D
The most important content are the motors. They are well packed with a prop mount for both sides. The shaft-side will not be used. Not only that, the shaft itself is too long so time to fire up the dremel (is the dremel even known outside the Netherlands?)
Attachment 5306560Attachment 5306556Attachment 5306562

First I taped it up untill there were no holes left where the iron dust can reach the magnets.
One down.............................................. .................................Three to go.
Attachment 5306563Attachment 5306564Attachment 5306565

I know I have to dismantle it all again but I have to see how it looks :cool:
Attachment 5306561Attachment 5306557Attachment 5306566
As you can see, the prop distance is not 2-2,5cm as said before.

Next thing to do is Simonize the esc's. I used to solder on all the wires to load the new firmware. This took me about 2 hours for 5 esc's (4 to fly, 1 spare). With the flashing tool I bought at Hobbyking it's a breese. Took me longer to get the shrink wrap off than uploading the SimonK firmware.
Attachment 5306558Attachment 5306559

That's it for now. Next things to do.
  • Shorten wires from esc to rx
  • Cut slots for the velcro to attach the Lipo
  • Change the weak screws that hold the prop mount for proper M2,5 screws (weak point of the SK3 serie)
  • Wait for the ebay orders (flatcable, headers):(

I hope there is something to show tomorrow so stay tuned :popcorn:

#13 Henni Nov 16, 2012 05:40 AM

Very nice build so far!
Nice to see some well constructed and clean builds in times were it seems that just everyone only want to buy&fly.

On my scratchbuilds I always use prop clearences of about a centimeter, I dont think that more would improve flight characteristics and less means more compact, more rigidity and less weight.

Is the copper around the holes removed? If not, isnīt there the possibility that both sides could have contact via the bolts?

Regards

#14 Sandav Nov 16, 2012 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henni (Post 23282439)
Very nice build so far!
Nice to see some well constructed and clean builds in times were it seems that just everyone only want to buy&fly.

On my scratchbuilds I always use prop clearences of about a centimeter, I dont think that more would improve flight characteristics and less means more compact, more rigidity and less weight.

Is the copper around the holes removed? If not, isnīt there the possibility that both sides could have contact via the bolts?

Regards

I build better then I can fly so building is for me a big part of the fun.
This is my first year of flying, I started in february, and this is my fifth frame.

The holes are deburred. That took enough material away to prevent shorting out the two sides.

#15 Sandav Nov 20, 2012 07:29 AM

17 Attachment(s)
Just a small update but a big step towards the end of the build. Slots for the velcro and esc wires shortened.

Velcro slots are pretty straight forward. I laid down a battery pack on the bottom plate and drew a line next to it. I drilled one 3mm hole and took the rest out with the dremel. The result looks like this.
Attachment 5316329Attachment 5316330

The esc's are a bit more work. Cutting the wires, splitting the three wires into single wires for ease of desoldering. Measuring the wires and solder them on again. And then finally shrink wrap them back into a black jacket.
Attachment 5316342Attachment 5316343Attachment 5316344Attachment 5316345

After that it's time to put it all back together. Starting out with soldering all the esc's to the bottom plate.
Attachment 5316331Attachment 5316332Attachment 5316333

After that it's a matter of putting all the screws back in and fasten them.
Attachment 5316359Attachment 5316360

And than the great wait starts, I just received an update of one of my ebay purchases. Instead of a delivery notice. it was a "I just put your package in the mail" notice :censored:
It could have been in Holland allready if they did that the day they got paid.


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