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#1 RMCCOR7737 Oct 31, 2012 06:37 PM

"Sopwith Camel" #19 Free Flight to RC Flight Kitbash Contest >> RMCCOR7737
 
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I too have decided to enter the contest whose official thread is located at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783997

My choice for the kit-bash contest is the 42" Sopwith Camel by F.C. Saunders. I ran across these plans in these forums one day and really liked the looks of design. So, when I seen there was to be a kit-bash, I thought what a good excuse to use to build this plane. Not that I need an excuse, but it works on my better half.:D
I have not seen this plane done anywhere before. If anyone has please let me know. I had the plans printed up yesterday from Staples. Made two copies of the original plans for reference and two copies of the CAD traced plans for building. I ordered most of the building materials yesterday from Bill and Walt's hobby in PA. Hopefully the balsa will be here within the next 5 days. In the mean time I am brainstorming on how I am going to make this bird fly on electric.:confused:

#2 davidterrell80 Oct 31, 2012 08:45 PM

I'll watch! Are you open to brainstorming?

Are you going to keep the 42-inch span?

#3 RMCCOR7737 Nov 01, 2012 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidterrell80 (Post 23151610)
I'll watch! Are you open to brainstorming?

Are you going to keep the 42-inch span?

Yes, very open to brainstorming. I am keeping the 42" wing span, although I am thinking flat bottom airfoil and flat tail surfaces.

#4 davidterrell80 Nov 01, 2012 07:29 PM

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I was pondering your issues, along with my own (I'm #20 in the contest); and, thinking how I would do the Camel.... getting the battery close to the CG and having access to it.

I thought about the real Camel and realized that there were two fixed weights (motor and pilot) with the variable weight fuel tank in between, on the CG.

I thought about a cockpit hatch... but, then I wondered... could one build the fuselage from F2 back, sheeting it back to F5 for stiffness and putting 3 servos in a tray about where F5 is, horizontal to waterline and side by side, left to right. The aileron servo would be in the middle and spindle pointing down, where I'd use torque rods to do lower wing ailerons.

I'd build a tray on the back of the cowl and F1 to hold (front to rear): the motor, firewall, ESC, long area to position battery front to rear for balance, and the RX. Magnets and two key tabs on F1 and F2 would hold it together and aligned for flight. I might even consider a slot in the tray bottom and a peg in the fuselage to align it and keep it from any vibration.

Then, between flights, pull off the cowl/tray, slide the tray out, replace the battery, slide it back in.

Since I'm doing a low wing monoplane, I'm going to make the canopy into a hatch.

Those are my thoughts. I'm not married to them. If they stir your thinking in a positive way, I'm pleased.

Feel free to kibitz on my current build and my contest build.

David

#5 RMCCOR7737 Nov 05, 2012 05:31 PM

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Received most of the balsa today. Hopefully the rest is soon to follow. Still waiting on electronics from hobby partz, and some misc stuff from TH. I did get all of my cut files printed out also. I expect to start soon though...:popcorn:

#6 RMCCOR7737 Nov 08, 2012 06:21 PM

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Now that half the builders are halfway through their builds, I am finally getting down to some serious work. The only thing holding me back is the fact I am pondering on some cosmetic flaws in the design I have chosen. Saunders designed the cowling bulges (what ever you call them) to end well aft the cockpit when they should end at the head rest point. Also the main wings tips are squared off instead of being semi-round. I am not sure if I should attempt to end the sides short of where the plans call for or to build as planed out? Or if I should round out the wing tips?

OR..am I over thinking this thing?...:confused:

#7 RMCCOR7737 Nov 09, 2012 08:41 PM

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My conscious just would not let me sleep at night knowing something wasn't right. I have decided to rectify the situation by deviating from the drawings a bit to get it a little closer to scale. Spent most of this evening marking up the plans and making cut out templates for all my parts and sorting the balsa wood. Maybe after finishing some home remodeling projects I am in the middle of I can start some building this week. Depending on how the weight develops as I build my initial power system is going to be a 480 910kv Exceed motor, 40 amp Dynam esc, 2200mah 2s battery swinging a 11" prop of some undetermined pitch. I will have to do some testing with the watt meter after I get an AUW. I believe I am going to go with scale aileron rigging using jewelry wire and a single servo for all 4. Also pull-pull on the rudder and elevators

#8 RMCCOR7737 Nov 10, 2012 08:25 PM

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Started roughing out one third of the top wing as a prototype for the remaining wing sections. In the photo below the pieces are just laid together. I do, however, have a question for the more experienced scratch builder concerning the wing tips. The LE is slightly raised due to the air foil design. Do I raise the front of my tip as in my photo to match the LE or taper the LE down to the tip? It is OK to ask for help isn't it?:confused:

#9 RMCCOR7737 Nov 12, 2012 03:24 AM

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I have one wing prototype done. Decide to build up the wing tip and sand to air foil. Also had to re-arrange some ribs to get the effect I was after. I will be moving the aileron ribs to match the main wing. Installed a micro push rod tube in the wing to house the cables. I want to be able to push a cable from on side to the other from outside the wing after it is covered in case they ever need replacement later.

#10 RMCCOR7737 Nov 12, 2012 08:05 PM

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I think I have finally achieved a profile I can live with. Now, if I can reproduce it 3 more times....:eek:

#11 gupi Nov 12, 2012 11:55 PM

This sure looks like an interesting build, i'll be watching!

#12 Sopwith Mike Nov 13, 2012 08:14 AM

On the question of wingtips on typical WWI undercambered wings you will get a much more scale-looking effect if the tip is undercambered slightly. The wing then looks correct from the side, even if the model wing section is flat bottomed. Good luck with the Camel - I'm subscribed,

Mike

#13 RMCCOR7737 Nov 13, 2012 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sopwith Mike (Post 23256643)
On the question of wingtips on typical WWI undercambered wings you will get a much more scale-looking effect if the tip is undercambered slightly. The wing then looks correct from the side, even if the model wing section is flat bottomed. Good luck with the Camel - I'm subscribed,

Mike

I get that. I am not going to try for the under cambered effect as I am going to be covering with coverlite and do not believe it will take well to the concave bottom. I have actually taken it out of the ribs from the original design. As you can see from the templates posted earlier, they are flat bottomed with a slight foil at the nose as to give the effect from the front. My thinking behind the tip profile was to just get a better scale appearance looking from above instead of the starved horse look.

#14 rtibbetts@hotm Nov 13, 2012 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RMCCOR7737 (Post 23261899)
My thinking behind the tip profile was to just get a better scale appearance looking from above instead of the starved horse look.

Not to beat a dead horse however, CoverLite does take well to undercambered surfaces if it is applied correctly. I've done many under cambered wings and never had the material come loose using Sig Stikit as the adhesive.

Just my two cents worth

Ron

#15 RMCCOR7737 Nov 13, 2012 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtibbetts@hotm (Post 23262015)
Not to beat a dead horse however, CoverLite does take well to undercambered surfaces if it is applied correctly. I've done many under cambered wings and never had the material come loose using Sig Stikit as the adhesive.

Just my two cents worth

Ron

Did not know that. I may have to give that a go, thanks. I'm too far now to try it on this build though.


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